Update troubleshooting.md

docs/troubleshooting.md

@@ -27,22 +27,26 @@ If you're (also) looking for tuning and calibration guides, see the chapter ["Ca
 If you're having the problem that your first layer isn't consistent across the plate and/or the print doesn't stick on the plate (even though you really cleaned the PEI plate), then it's most likely that your [z-offset](calibration.md#z-offset) isn't right and/or you're dealing with a warped or tilted [bed](hardware/bed.md) and therefore experience certain areas where the distance between the nozzle and the plate will vary too much.   
 
 - As a rule of thumb you can keep in mind that if the nozzle is too far above the bed, the prints won't stick and (depending on how far above the nozzle actually is) may result in a spaghetti incident (which is filament all over the place) or a blob of fear (which is a large clump of filament built up around the hotend).  
-  If the nozzle is too close to the bed, the filament will get squished into the plate too much and that will (depending on *how* close the nozzle actually is) provoke clogging as well as it makes it difficult to remove the printed model later.  
+  If the nozzle is too close to the bed, the filament will get squished into the plate too much and that will (depending on *how* close the nozzle actually is) provoke clogging as well as it makes it difficult to remove the printed model later.
+  If the nozzle is too far away from the bed, the filament won't be squished into the build plate properly or won't stay on the bed at all. 
   *The first layer is crucial for a perfect print, so take your time and get your z-offset dialed in well.*   
-  See the section ["Z-Offset"](calibration.md#z-offset) for further tips and check out [this handy reference](https://i.imgur.com/hIcGr8U.png) as well for determining the perfect first layer.  
-- Also make sure that you [trammed the x-axis gantry](hardware/axes.md#tramming-the-x-axis-gantry), so that the nozzle has the same distance to the plate across the whole area. This might not be enough though if you're encountering a tilted bed along the y-axis, so check the next listing. 
+  See the section ["Z-Offset"](calibration.md#z-offset) for further tips and check out [this handy reference](https://i.imgur.com/hIcGr8U.png) as well for determining the perfect first layer.
+  First tip: check the underside of your print - if you can clearly see or even vaguely identify individual lines, your nozzle is still a bit too far away from the bed.    
+- Also make sure that you [trammed the x-axis gantry](hardware/axes.md#tramming-the-x-axis-gantry), so that the nozzle has the same distance to the plate across the whole area. This might not be enough though if you're encountering a tilted bed along the y-axis, so check the next listing.
+- Check the whole construction and the frame of the printer itself. Everthing has to be set up being square, parallel, perpendicular and equidistant to each other. If the frame isn't trammed and e.g. the Y-axis is being mounted crooked or tilted (which is possible due to play in the whole construction), then you'll never be able to get perfect prints.  
 - If you're using the rigid stock spacers (the black round parts between the bedplate and the bedgantry) that came with the printer, then it's most likely that they're not all of the same height (at my Neo they *all* had a different height!). Of course that'll lead to a somewhat warped or tilted bed.  
-  Before you start fiddling around with that either trying to get them all to the same height by e.g. sanding them down or by putting some sort of thin material underneath them to eaglize the height, I'd recommend to just get some [adjustable spacers](hardware/bed.md#different-spacers) for the bed for being able to tram the bed itself as well.  
+  Instead of fiddling around with either trying to get them all to the same height by e.g. sanding them down or by putting some sort of thin material underneath them to equalize the height, you might wanna get some [adjustable spacers](hardware/bed.md#different-spacers) for the bed for being able to tram the bed itself as well. This process can be quite challenging and more annoying than taking the effort once to equalize the rigid stock spacers though, so don't think that it'll necessarily make everything easier for you. 
 - I'd recommend to check the bedmesh values (query M503 through a program like e.g. OctoPrint, Pronterface to get them listed) or use e.g. OctoPrint for getting a meshview out of it. By doing so you can see how 'flat' and trammed the bed is.  
   If it's tilted, tram it.  
   If it's warped or bent (like e.g. a bow) or if you're having certain spots which seem to be bulges or dents or if you have a certain area which is lower, you can use *Kapton tape* to equalize those areas/spots. Just take off the PEI plate, stick pieces of the Kapton tape right onto the magnetic foil of the bed, put the PEI plate back on and do another ABL sequence. Then check the values or the meshview again. By doing so step by step, you can get yourself a bed as flat as possible. Minor deviations should be compensated by the ABL function later when printing.  
   See the chapter ["Bed"](hardware/bed.md) (mind the expandable textboxes) as well for more information.  
 - Wiggle the bed and check if it moves in the vertical plane. If it does, check the bolts and nuts of the bedgantry and [check the v-slot wheels for perfect position](hardware/axes.md#v-slot-wheels-position_2). Most likely the wheels (or at least one) are a bit too far away from the aluminum frame. Adjust the position of the wheels then, but pay attention to not adjust them too tight as well.  
 - Of course you have to pay attention that you really cleaned the PEI plate of the bed properly using e.g. simple dishwasher soap (no balm or 'soft' soap as they often contain some oily ingredients) and IPA to make the prints stick to it. I personally prefer and highly recommend *silicone remover spray* (that's the stuff the guys are using who are painting cars on a professional basis to get off any oil and grease off the chassis before starting the actual paintjob), it just works great. 
 - Avoid touching the plate with your bare hands and fingers as that'll leave a tiny amount of grease onto the plate as well.  
-- Also make sure that you chose the correct temperature of the bed for the filament you're using. For PLA for example it should be around 55°-60°C. If the bed is too hot, then the print won't reliably stick to it either.   
 - Once the plate is clean, the z-offset is dialed in and the bedtemp is correct for the type of filament, the PEI plate really works great. There's *no need* to mess around with some sort of gluestick, tape, hairspray or whatsoever.  
-- I'd also suppose to add a brim to your model (you need to do it in the slicer), which helps keeping the print staying on the plate a lot. This is especially useful for objects with a small base. You can configure the width of the brim in your slicer. After finishing the print, you just wait until the object is cooled down and then you can break/tear the brim off the object. If tiny amounts of the brim stay at the model, just use a sharp cutter.   
+- I'd also suppose to add a brim to your model (you need to do it in the slicer), which helps keeping the print staying on the plate a lot. This is especially useful for objects with a small base. You can configure the width of the brim in your slicer. After finishing the print, you just wait until the object is cooled down and then you can break/tear the brim off the object. If tiny amounts of the brim stay at the model, just use a sharp cutter.
+- Also make sure that you chose the correct temperature of the bed for the filament you're using. For PLA for example it should be around 55°-60°C, PETG sticks best in my case at 80°C. If the bed is too hot, then the print won't reliably stick to it either.
+- Turn off the part cooling fan when printing the first (few) layer(s) and use the correct fanspeed depending on your filament (e.g.: PLA needs a lot of cooling, PETG needs usually less cooling).     
 
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