diff --git a/soldering/solder-challenge.md b/soldering/solder-challenge.md
index 0ea0449..9186ce7 100644
--- a/soldering/solder-challenge.md
+++ b/soldering/solder-challenge.md
@@ -10,8 +10,54 @@ latex: true
- [Solder Challenge](#solder-challenge)
- [Contents](#contents)
- [Materials](#materials)
+ - [General Tips and Tricks](#general-tips-and-tricks)
+ - [Procedure](#procedure)
- [Submission](#submission)
## Materials
-- [ ]
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+
+All of these materials are presorted into the correct number you need in the solder lab bins. Take ONE "bundle" of each component unless stated otherwise.
+
+
+- [ ] 1 Solder Challenge PCB
+- [ ] 1 Arduino with Solder-Tester code uploaded (from ENGR100-950 library)
+- [ ] 8 1k$$\Omega$$ Through-Hole Resistors
+- [ ] 6 1k$$\Omega$$ Surface Mount Resistors (1001 Resistors)
+- [ ] 5 Through-Hole LEDs
+- [ ] 4 Surface Mount LEDs
+- [ ] 1 9v Battery Connector
+- [ ] 2 10 Pin Headers
+
+## General Tips and Tricks
+
+
+READ ALL OF THESE ITEMS CAREFULLY. DO NOT SKIP ANY OF THESE ITEMS.
+
+
+1. A common misconception when soldering exists around where you should apply the heat from the iron.
+ - You are **NOT** simply applying heat to the solder wire. If you try to solder by only heating the wire, you are working against surface tension and it is likely all of your solder will stick to either the iron or the pin of the component you are soldering.
+
+ - You **ARE** trying to heat the pad, or the through-hole, simultaneously with the pin of the component you are placing. Any two components you want soldered together (aka the PCB to the component) should both be heated so that the solder flows between them and thoroughly joins them together.
+
+ - You should directly place a very small amount of solder on the tip of the iron, so that the surface of the iron doing the heating is increased. This way, when you place the tip of the iron on the pad or through-hole, there is a larger surface area of heat being applied, providing a nice path for the solder to flow on.
+
+2. If the tip of your soldering iron is very dark, or looks crusty, you need to clean it! You may use the wire wool and lightly "scrape" off any contaminants, excess solder, or excess flux. You may also "tin" the tip of the iron one of two ways:
+ - Apply a larger amount of solder to the tip of the iron to "coat" it in solder. The flux/rosin inside the solder wire will act as a sort of cleaning agent on the iron. After coating, use the wire wool to scrape off all excess material. Your iron should be shinier now!
+
+ - Lightly press the tip into a can of tinning solder. Make sure the tip of the iron is thoroughly scraped clean before doing so, to avoid leaving drops of old solder in the can. Then scrape the iron in the wire wool to clean off any excess material.
+
+3. **ALWAYS** use the carbon filter fans to absorb smoke from the iron and burning flux. It's not fun to breathe this smoke for long periods of time...
+ - Please... DO NOT try to wipe the iron on the carbon filters, this ruins them.
+
+4. **DO NOT** try cleaning your iron with the sponge if it is not damp... this is (should be) self explanatory. If you do decide to use the damp sponge as a cleaner, do not do it very often or for long periods of time. The irons have a ceramic heating element with a metal cover. Going from extreme heat to extreme cold is hard on these materials.
+
+5. Wear safety glasses while soldering if you don't already wear glasses that sufficiently cover your eyes.
+
+## Procedure
+
+1. Turn on the carbon filter fan, and turn on the soldering iron. It will begin to heat up, and should stop at a value of somewhere around 700-850 degrees Fahrenheit. If not, check with an instructor for help changing the temperature.
+
+2. Gather your materials from the list at the beginning of the document. They are separated for you, so you shouldn't need to cut any packaging or tape rolls.
+
+![Soldering Materials]
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