volume-6_1898-1899.xml

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                <title>A Journal on the Bedawin 1889-1912</title>
                <author>
                    <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Mrs Emma B. Andrews</persName>
                </author>
                <editor>
                    <persName ref="#SLK">Dr. Sarah L. Ketchley</persName>
                </editor>
                <respStmt>
                    <resp>EBA Interns</resp>
                    <persName ref="#CS">Clare Summa</persName>
                    <persName ref="#KV">Karena Vongampai</persName>
                    <persName ref="#AL">Amanda Li</persName>
                    <persName ref="#NS">Nitya Sampath</persName>
                    <persName ref="JC">Jennifer Charoni</persName>
                </respStmt>
            </titleStmt>
            <publicationStmt>
                <publisher>The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project</publisher>
                <address>
                    <addrLine>University of Washington, Seattle WA 98195 U.S.A.</addrLine>
                </address>
                <availability>
                    <licence target="http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/">This work is
                        licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0
                        International License."></licence>
                </availability>
                <date when="2018"> 2011-2018 </date>
                <distributor>The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project</distributor>
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            <notesStmt>
                <note>Volume 6 1898-1899</note>
            </notesStmt>
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                <bibl>
                    <title>A Journal on the Bedawin 1889-1912</title>
                    <author>
                        <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Mrs. Emma B. Andrews</persName>
                    </author>
                    <orgName ref="#APS">The American Philsophical Society</orgName>
                    <address>
                        <addrLine>105 South Fifth Street Philadelphia, PA 19106</addrLine>
                    </address>
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                <p>
                    <persName ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Emma B. Andrews</persName> is best remembered
                    for her association with the millionaire lawyer turned archaeologist/art and
                    antiquities collector, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore M.
                        Davis</persName>. Traveling to <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName>
                    with him between 1889 and 1912, she kept detailed journals of these voyages
                    along the <placeName ref="#Nile_River">Nile</placeName>, including his important
                    yet under-reported excavations of 20 significant tombs in the <placeName
                        ref="#Valley_of_the_Kings">Valley of the Kings</placeName>. <persName
                        ref="#Andrews_Emma_B">Emma</persName> provides a vital commentary on the
                    archaeology and pioneering Egyptologists of the time. She paints a revealing
                    picture of the lives of the colonial gentry and the cultural and scientific
                    literati in <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> at the dawn of the
                    twentieth century. To date, her diaries are unpublished; analysis of the
                    contents of 19 volumes will afford scholars and a general audience information
                    about an important historical resource for the first time. Since its inception
                    in 2010, the scope of our project has broadened to include the transcription and
                    digitization of a wide range of primary historical material from the 'Golden
                    Age' of Egyptian archaeology detailed in the Research section of this website.
                    The Emma B. Andrews Diary Project is one of the founding partners of Newbook
                    Digital Texts. We are proud to offer undergraduate and graduate Digital
                    Humanities education and internships.</p>
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                    <person role="editor" sex="F">
                        <persName ref="#SLK">Dr. Sarah L. Ketchley</persName>
                        <affiliation>University of Washington</affiliation>
                        <occupation>Affiliate Instructor</occupation>
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                            <event>
                                <p>Project Director 2010-present</p>
                            </event>
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                    <person role="intern" sex="F">
                        <persName ref="#CS">Clare Summa</persName>
                        <affiliation>University of Washington</affiliation>
                        <occupation>Student Intern</occupation>
                        <listEvent>
                            <event>
                                <p>Team member 2015-2016</p>
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            <pb n="001"/>
            <div xml:id="EBA18981212" type="Entry">
                <p><title><placeName ref="#Bedrescheyn">Bedrescheyn</placeName> – <placeName
                            ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName>.</title></p>
                <p><title>Dec. 12, 1898.</title></p>
                <p>It is just one month today that we sailed from <placeName ref="#New_York">New
                        York</placeName>, again on the <name type="boat" ref="#Kaiser_Wilhem_II"/>.
                    The voyage was a slow and very tiresome one. The weather warm, grey and showery.
                    We reached <placeName ref="#Gibraltar">Gibraltar</placeName> the evening of
                        <date>Monday the 21st</date> about 8 o’clock – and lost that ever
                    interesting sight of the approach of the big rock. A fleet of seven English war
                    vessels were in harbour, and would have made a pretty spectacle by daylight. Got
                    away at 10 o’clock, and reached <placeName ref="#Naples">Naples</placeName> too
                    late on the evening of the <date>24th</date> to land – although every one was
                    packed and ready to get off. The disappointment was all the greater. We passed
                    the usual night of din and turmoil, incident to coaling, and landed at 8 o’clock
                    the next morning, finding <persName ref="#Andersen">Andersen</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary Buttles</persName> waiting for us. A day
                    and night at the <name type="hotel" ref="#Grand_Hotel">Grand Hotel</name>, and
                    off on Saturday in the very comfortable <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Regina_Margherita">"Regina Margherita"</name> for <placeName
                        ref="#Alexandria">Alexandria</placeName> which we reached on Tuesday morning
                    at 9 o’clock and <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> in the evening.
                        <persName ref="#Parsons_Lellie">Mrs. Edwin Parsons(Lellie Swayne)</persName>
                    with two nieces came out with us from <placeName ref="#New_York">New
                        York</placeName>, and has engaged the dahabeah<name type="boat"
                        ref="#Sol el-Nil">Sol el-Nil</name>, commonly known as the Hungarian
                    dahabeah, and our faithful old <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName>
                    and we all started together this morning, and will keep together. She is
                    delighted with everything and so is <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie
                        Whaling</persName> whom we brought for the winter. There is the usual crowd
                    at <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName>, thinner perhaps as we are nearly
                    two weeks earlier than usual. The <placeName ref="Nile_River">Nile</placeName>
                    is very high this year – and we have just <pb n="002"/> escaped a week of rain
                    which they have had here, and which has filled <placeName ref="#Cairo"
                        >Cairo</placeName> with mosquitos. And right glad I was to escape <name
                        type="hotel" ref="#Shepheards">Shepheards</name>, and constant combats with
                    mosquitos, and come to our own home on this beautiful <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Bedouin">Bedouin</name>. She has never been in such perfect order – or
                    so pretty and comfortable – and peace and repose are again descending upon
                    me.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981213" type="Entry">
                <p><title><placeName ref="#Bedrescheyn">Bedrescheyn</placeName>. Dec. 13.
                        Tuesday.</title></p>
                <p>Everyone went out to <placeName ref="#Saqqara">Saqqara</placeName> this morning
                    except <persName ref="#Parsons_Lellie">Lellie Parsons</persName> and myself.
                    About 4 o’clock it began to look rather threatening – and in a few moments the
                    rain came in torrents. I never saw it rain more furiously for a little while.
                    Great excitement on the boat – all hands gathering the bread that was drying on
                    deck into safe quarters. I had to take refuge below, while the deck was quickly
                    dismantled and everything put under canvass. I was uncomfortable about our
                    people – as I saw the <orgName ref="#Thomas_Cook_and_Sons">Cook</orgName> party
                    from the <name type="boat" ref="Ramesis">Ramesis</name> arriving in bedraggled
                    condition. But they came home dry, having taken refuge under cover. It has
                    rained at intervals since – is warm- the cloud scenery after the heavy storm was
                    wonderful. Our boat did not leak in the slightest degree.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981214" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Dec. 14.</title></p>
                <p>Beautiful weather, but no wind until about 4 o’clock, when we started and made a
                    mile or two.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981215" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Dec. 15.</title></p>
                <p>Did not move – lovely, serene weather – no wind. Thermometer<pb n="003"/> at 2
                    o’clock in the shade stood at 65˚. </p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981216" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, Dec. 16.</title></p>
                <p>Our men tracked about half a mile, but <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> thinks this such a waste of time and strength, that he
                    does not often permit it. We are still in sight of <placeName ref="#Helouan"
                        >Helouan</placeName> – and the <placeName ref="#Saqqara">Saqqara</placeName>
                    pyramids.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981217" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Dec. 17.</title></p>
                <p>We all took a walk into the town on the railroad this morning to post some
                    letters. Our way was by the pleasant palm forest – along the canal, and the
                    picturesque, but vilely smelling mud town. A charming country about – still no
                    wind – but rather promising signs in the sky this evening.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981218" type="Entry">
                <p><title><placeName ref="#Wasta">Wasta</placeName>. Dec. 18. Fourth Sunday in
                        Advent.</title>
                    <title>36 miles.</title></p>
                <p>We at last got off this morning at 7 o’clock, in a good wind that held finely,
                    and we had a glorious run, bringing up here at 4 o’clock. The <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Lul_el_Nil">Lul el Nil</name>, came along an hour after – and tomorrow
                    we will all go by rail to the <placeName ref="#Fayum">Fayum</placeName> –
                    returning the same day. This will not of course give us time to see much. But
                    the <name type="hotel" ref="#Greek_Inn">Greek Inn</name> at the <placeName
                        ref="#El_Medina">Medina</placeName> is impossible, and we could not see our
                    way to doing the whole thing, much as we would like to see it, as we should be
                    obliged to carry a camp outfit and spend three or four days there. High wind
                    tonight and we are rolling a good deal. </p>
                <pb n="004"/>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981219" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Dec. 19.</title></p>
                <p> Started for <placeName ref="#El_Medina">El Medina</placeName>, <placeName
                        ref="#Fayum">Fayum</placeName> by rail at 10:30, Parson included – and
                    folted in fairly comfortable fashion across the desert to <placeName
                        ref="#el_Medina">Medina</placeName> which we reached at 12 o’clock – and had
                    an excellent luncheon at the <name type="hotel" ref="#Hotel_du_Fayoum">Hotel du
                        Fayoum</name> – where one could be very comfortable for a few days and see
                    the district thoroughly. Then we had 3 carriages! and drove about through the
                    town and environs. The town is quite European, is of much importance, 40,000
                    inhabitants – and the great canal, the <placeName ref="#Bahr_Jusuf_Canal">the
                        Bahr Jusuf</placeName> which leaves the <placeName ref="#Nile_River"
                        >Nile</placeName> near <placeName ref="Assuit">Assiut</placeName> and flows
                    to the <placeName ref="#Fayum">Fayoum</placeName> gives extraordinary fertility
                    to this district. Its many branches flowing through the town, and the numerous
                    bridges we crossed gave many novel features – making a kind of Egyptian
                        <placeName ref="#Venice">Venice</placeName> or <placeName ref="#Amsterdam"
                        >Amsterdam</placeName>. Very good streets, with handsome buildings, and
                    gardens – most interesting. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>
                    made the acquaintance of an unknown Englishman who has lived there for 10 years
                    – and he says one can drive quite comfortably to the pyramids of <placeName
                        ref="#Hawara">Hawara</placeName> and <placeName ref="#Illahun"
                        >Illahun</placeName>. Home by 5 o’clock tired and glad. Fine evening effects
                    returning across the desert. The <placeName ref="#Meydum">Meydum</placeName>
                    pyramid touched to radiance by the setting sun, while all about was grey and
                    dark.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981220" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, Dec. 20.</title></p>
                <p>Very heavy fog this morning – and no wind until 11 o’clock – very shifting all
                    day – with heavy clouds about late in the afternoon, and some lightning and a
                    little rain. Made about 6 miles. I had one charming hour on deck just after
                    lunch, while we were anchored in a <pb n="005"/> dead calm. Water like glass –
                    the delicate colouring of that hour of the day – the utter stillness only
                    emphasised by a boat descending the other side of the wide river, with its
                    boatmen crooning and singing. What heavenly repose!</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981221" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Dec. 21.</title></p>
                <p>A cool morning and but little wind until about 3 P.M. when with a west wind we
                    sailed until 4:30 and made near 6 miles, and then obliged to tie up to the
                    bank.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA1898122" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Dec. 22.</title>
                    <title>3 miles.</title></p>
                <p>A splendid cloudless day with light south west wind – we pulled to the anchor to
                    opposite side of river, tracked a little way, and then pulled back and tracked –
                    making 3 miles, we suppose we are about 15 miles south of <placeName
                        ref="#Wasta">Wasta</placeName>. A radiant night!</p>
            </div>


            <div xml:id="EBA18981223" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, Dec. 23.</title></p>
                <p>One mile. S.E. wind still holds – tracked a little – and beginning to feel a
                    little discouraged. The <name type="boat" ref="#Thames">“Thames”</name> with
                        <orgName ref="#Kidders">the Kidders</orgName> from Boston, is lying ahead of
                    us, too far for visiting. The <name type="boat" ref="#Eurydice"
                        >“Eurydice”</name> somewhere near her, on which are a Canadian family
                        <persName ref="Smith">(Smith)</persName> who crossed with us on the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Kaiser_Wilhelm">Kaiser Wilhem</name>. </p>
            </div>

            <pb n="006"/>
            <div xml:id="EBA18981224" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Dec. 24.</title></p>
                <p>Still lying where we were last night with high south wind blowing. If it had not
                    been so cold last night, I should have thought a khamseen coming for it has been
                    thick and hazy all day – the sun a pale round orb disappearing early in an
                    atmosphere laden with dust and sand. We have been trying to put the boat into
                    festive Xmas attire with the very poor things we could find at a garden near
                    here. The little salon now looks gay with bunches of rosemary in masses over
                    sideboard and pictures, making a pleasant atmosphere – and looking like
                    hemlocks.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981225" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Christmas. Dec. 25. Sunday.</title></p>
                <p>A brilliant, beautiful morning – and our breakfast table had a very festive air
                    with its flowers, and its many presents. <persName ref="#Parsons_Lellie">Mrs.
                        Parsons</persName> and the girls came to dine – and we had a nice evening.
                    The same S.W. gale has continued to blow, and we have not moved.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981226" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Dec. 26.</title><title>8 miles.</title></p>
                <p>West wind – between tracking and sailing made 8 miles, and are now near
                        <placeName ref="#Benisoef">Benisoef</placeName>, tied up to an island. It
                    has rained slightly two or three times this afternoon.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981227" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday. Dec. 27.</title><title>13 miles.</title></p>
                <p>A strong wind, dying down by 11 o’clock, enabled <pb n="007"/> us to make a
                    start, and tracking, pulling to the anchor, and sailing brought us near
                        <placeName ref="#Bibeh">Bibeh</placeName>, where we are tied up – having
                    made about 13 miles. Cold.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981228" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Dec. 28th.</title><title>34-35 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Started in light wind soon after 9 – then we tracked and at 11 a light wind
                    brought us along until 7 o’clock, when we brought up a mile this side of
                        <placeName ref="#Abu Girgeh">Abu Girgeh</placeName> – having made about 35
                    miles – still cold – the thermometer went last night down to 39˚.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981229" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Dec. 29.</title>
                    <title>31 miles.</title></p>
                <p>A dense fog this morning and calm – wind rose at 11 and remained light and fitful
                    all day. We brought up at 7:30, 5 miles north of <placeName ref="#Minieh"
                        >Minieh</placeName>, having made 31 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981230" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, Dec. 30.</title><title>5 miles.</title></p>
                <p>No wind until after 3 P.M. when a light one carried us down to <placeName
                        ref="#Minieh">Minieh</placeName> – the <name type="boat" ref="#Luli_el-Nil"
                        >Luli el-Nil</name>, coming in half an hour after. Just too late to get the
                    mail – for then we had to wait until 8 o’clock – many letters but happily no bad
                    news. Heaps of papers bringing us news of the great gale at <placeName
                        ref="#Newport">Newport</placeName> and along the coast on the 27 Nov. also
                    of the sudden death by pneumonia of <persName ref="#Brice_Calvin_Mr">Mr. Calvin
                        Brice</persName>.</p>
            </div>
            <pb n="008"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18981231" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Dec. 31.</title></p>
                <p>Still at <placeName ref="#Minieh">Minieh</placeName>. Have been dining with
                        <persName ref="#Parsons_Lellie">Lellie Parsons</persName> on the <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Luli_el_Nil">Luli el-Nil</name>. Young <persName
                        ref="#Morris_Gouverneur">Gouverneur Morris</persName> from <placeName
                        ref="#New York">New York</placeName>, and a friend of his having come up to
                    spend the night and dine with them. Just before coming away as we were such a
                    party of Americans, we all stood up and sang, “My Country ‘tis of Thee”.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980102" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Jan. 2, 1899. 5 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Yesterday a dead calm – or wind in the South – today the same, but between
                    tracking and polling have made 5 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980103" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 3. 8-1/2 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Calm until early in the afternoon – when we began tracking and sailed a little
                    bringing up at <placeName ref="#Beni Hassan">Beni Hassan</placeName>, or a mile
                    north of it about 5 o’clock, making 8-1/2 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980107" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Jan. 7. 7 miles.</title></p>
                <p>A strong, cold, south wind has been blowing since Tuesday – sometimes amounting
                    to a gale – so that sitting on deck, and even walking has been disagreeable –
                    sand flying etc. We laid all the time just opposite the <placeName
                        ref="#Hasan_Beni">Beni Hassan</placeName> hills, with the tombs plainly in
                    sight – and the afternoon sun falling softly upon them made them seem a splendid
                    resting place. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName>, with the people from the other boat
                    went over yesterday morning – <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> and
                    I would not face the wind and sand. This morning we began tracking about <pb
                        n="009"/> 9 o’clock and soon the wind shifting to the west, made it possible
                    to sail, as there was a favorable bend in the river – and we made 7 miles, and
                    are near <placeName ref="#Rhoda">Rhoda</placeName>. Thermometer last night
                    42˚.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980108" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday, Jan. 8. 1st Sunday after Epiphany.</title></p>
                <p>We began tracking this morning at 7 o’clock – thus making a difficult turn, when
                    we were able to sail, and kept on nearly until 10 o’clock, when the wind became
                    so strong, we had to bring up near the town which lies almost on the site of the
                    old town built by <persName ref="#Hadrian_Emperor">Hadrian</persName> in memory
                    of <persName ref="#Antinous">Antinous</persName>. A lovely place it was, amidst
                    its lovely palms. I did not walk with the rest to see the few scant ruins of the
                    ancient town – for the wind was so strong and cold, and the dust and sand flying
                    in such blinding fashion. Everything inside and out was covered with it. We got
                    away this afternoon in a fine wind, which brought us to <placeName
                        ref="#Hadji Kandil">Hadji Kandil</placeName> about 7 o’clock, making 17
                    miles. Mercury again at 42˚ last night.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980109" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Jan 9. 28 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Tracking begun at 7 o’clock this morning – it being calm and misty. By 10 o’clock
                    the wind had risen, and we were bowling along in splendid fashion, until we
                    approached the difficult <placeName ref="#Abu_Feda">Abu Fêda</placeName> cliffs
                    – where the great bends in the river make such difficult sailing when the wind
                    became fitful – coming in dangerous gusts – followed by <pb n="010"/> almost
                    dead calms – even drawing ahead. The situation further complicated by many
                    gyasses, made it so exciting, that we feel quite worn out this evening. The
                    Beduin behaved splendidly, and our men were enthusiastic. We are now lying
                    opposite <placeName ref="#Manfalût">Manfalût</placeName>, where we hope to get
                    some coal or charcoal, as our fuel is exhausted – and although there is a lot
                    waiting for us at <placeName ref="#Assuit">Assiut</placeName>, and we are only
                    26 miles from there, yet in this uncertain sailing we may not be able to get
                    there tomorrow. The <name type="boat" ref="#Luli_el_Nil">Luli el-Nil</name> lies
                    just behind us.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980110" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, Jan. 10. 26 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Started at 7 A.M. and with wind more or less light sailed until after dark –
                    about 6 we struck the sand, and our men worked hard for an hour before we were
                    off – fairly lifting the boat along. Then we were off, and reached <placeName
                        ref="#Assiut">Assiut</placeName> at 7 o’clock P.M. One of the most beautiful
                    sunsets it was ever vouchsafed to man to see – beginning with a glory that the
                    river everywhere reflected, with masses and great sweeps of light clouds – dying
                    down through every range of colour – and leaving earth and sky in a deep blue
                    and pink darkness! Very cold this morning – thermometer at 38˚ last night.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980111" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 11. Assiut. 22 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Still very cold this morning though mercury only at 42˚ - <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName>, <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie"
                        >Bessie</persName> and I, taking <persName ref="#Abdul">Abdul</persName>,
                    drove into the town as far as the Post Office, intending to keep on to the <pb
                        n="011"/> bazaar. But meeting <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName>
                    and the Cook entering with all their purchases made, and the wind being
                    favourable, and <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> who went off
                    early to inspect the new barrage works, having instructed us not to stay long,
                    we obediently turned back at the P.O. We had a travesty of a carriage, a most
                    curiously compounded harness – and two poor, little, starved horses that made
                    one’s heart ache. Came very near an upset – off at 11:30, and sailing and
                    tracking we kept on until 9 this morning, bringing up 7 miles south of
                        <placeName ref="#Aboutig">Aboutig</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980112" type="Entry">
                <p><title>
                        <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName>. Thursday, Jan. 12. 45
                        miles.</title></p>
                <p>A very heavy fog this morning – tracked, and began sailing at 1 o’clock, and the
                    wind holding we kept on until 8 o’clock – when we brought up at <placeName
                        ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName>, under its high bank with its fine street and
                    electric lamps. Soon after we pulled up heavy firing began just above us, making
                    us jump in our seats at each discharge. It was the announcement that Ramadan
                    begins tomorrow, the new moon having shown herself last night, I hope she will
                    bring us warmer weather, it is a pleasure to look forward to the lovely nights
                    she brings. The wind has been cold all day – and there is a penetrating cold
                    tonight. We have the little stove lighted and placed in the hall. 37˚ last
                    night. Early this morning we passed dahabeah <name type="boat" ref="#Cairo"
                        >“Cairo”</name> with the English flag, later the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Enterpe">Enterpe</name>, also with English flag. We have left the
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Luli_el_Nil">Luli el Nil</name> with our friends
                    behind – they did not get off from <placeName ref="#Assiut">Assiut</placeName>
                    as early as we did.</p>
            </div>
            <pb n="012"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980113" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, Jan. 13. <placeName ref="#Girgeh">Girgeh</placeName>. 24-1/2
                        miles.</title></p>
                <p>A fair sailing day – though obliged to track past <placeName ref="#Akmim"
                        >Akmim</placeName> – an awkward thing as its banks are strewn with large
                    stones, and many boats are always lying there. Brought up at <placeName
                        ref="#Girgeh">Girgeh</placeName> at 6:30. Cold. <persName
                        ref="#Mohammed_Salah">Salah</persName> not yet in sight. <placeName
                        ref="#Girgeh">Girgeh</placeName> has been for years shut off from boats by a
                    huge sand island which the high Nile of this year has completely carried away –
                    so that for the first time we could approach the town.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980114" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday Jan. 14. 8 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Did not reach <placeName ref="#Balliana">Balliana</placeName> until near one
                    o’clock – as the wind was so light. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> with <persName
                        ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName>, 3 of our men and the lunch started at
                    once for <placeName ref="#Abydos">Abydos</placeName>. <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> in my chair, with 2 donkeys – she
                    pronounces the new harness a success. They had a beautiful excursion – I with
                    the memory of my last two rides on the bad donkeys for which <placeName
                        ref="#Abydos">Abydos</placeName> has long been famous, declined to go and
                    had a pleasant busy day at home. An ideal day for such a long ride, cool, cloudy
                    and no wind. We passed a large gyassa lying at <placeName ref="#Balliana"
                        >Balliana</placeName>, which looked as if it must have come straight from
                    The <placeName ref="#Sudan">Sudan</placeName>, or from the Arabian Nights –
                    loaded with strange interesting looking bales, in mattings, with pretty rugs –
                    and patches of colour – queer looking skins filled with valuables hung about the
                    masts – one red, and one green flag with characters from the Koran – and a lot
                    of swarthy fellows in enormous white turbans, and spotless white gowns, sitting
                    and lying about. <pb n="013"/>
                    <persName ref="#Mohammed_Salah">Salah</persName> not yet in sight – we hear they
                    are at <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName> today. I am so sorry to lose
                    them – but hope we may soon get together again.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980115" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday – 2d after Epiphany. Jan. 15.10 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Light wind and tracking made 10 miles above <placeName ref="#Balliana"
                        >Balliana</placeName> weather warmer.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980116" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Jan. 16. 28 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Could not start until near noon. When the wind came up we reached <placeName
                        ref="#Nag_Hamade">Nag Hamade</placeName> at one o’clock – and waited for the
                    bridge to open. The wind very strong and cool, and we were suffocated with the
                    dust that blew over the high bank above us. At 3:30 when the bridge opened the
                    wind so strong that I was surprised that <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> would venture through. Our sailors took the rope on
                    shore and we worked through under a good deal of excitement as the wind carried
                    us against the iron barge, and it was with some scratches and much effort that
                    we got through. A tearing wind for an hour growing somewhat quieter brought us
                    at 10:30 to <placeName ref="#Dishneh">Dishneh</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980117" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday, Jan. 17. 20-1/2 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Off at 7 o’clock, reaching <placeName ref="#Denderah">Denderah</placeName> at
                    9:30. Wind high and much dust. The rest went to the temple. I wisely stayed at
                    home – and took my exercise on the clean deck. They were back for one o’clock
                    lunch, and we were off immediately, flying along in the highwind, when we found
                    the chicken boat was full of water, <pb n="014"/> and we made for land, coming
                    in unpleasant contact with the Nitocris. We found 3 chickens dead, and several
                    of the pigeons. The coops were lifted to shore and opened, and the half drowned
                    survivors came out to dry themselves – but our one precious goose with a cry of
                    joy made for the water, and took a long and enthusiastic bath. After the boat
                    had been cleaned, and fowls put back, we started again – but the river was so
                    dangerous with its sudden turns and gusts of wind we stopped at 5 o’clock at
                        <placeName ref="#Kuft">Kuft</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980118" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Jan. 18. 28 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Started at 7:30 – light wind – tracking, polling, we came to within 4 or 5 miles
                    of <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> – but cannot make the last turn in
                    the river, without wind – so have stopped for the night.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980119" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Jan. 19. Luxor. 4 miles.</title></p>
                <p>We were until 2 P.M. making the four miles here, found only one dahabeah here –
                    having passed the <name type="boat" ref="#Gazelle">Gazelle</name> early this
                    morning. We came to our usual mooring, our favorite place under the Castle – and
                    soon our friends had found us out. <persName ref="#Achmed">Achmed</persName>
                    with his donkey boys – our chicken boy – <persName ref="#Sablool"
                        >Sablool</persName> – and all – I did not leave the boat, always enjoying
                    the settling for a prolonged stay. The rest went to <placeName ref="#Karnak"
                        >Karnak</placeName> – still cool, even cold. </p>
            </div>
            <pb n="015"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980126" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Jan. 26.</title></p>
                <p>Still at <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName>. It grows a little warmer. The
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Luli_El_Nil">Lulèe el Nil</name> came in on the
                    21st, and is just behind us. We have done the usual things. Races, visits to
                    ruins etc – I went for the day with all, to the <placeName
                        ref="#Valley_of_the_Kings">Tombs of the Kings</placeName> – a lovely day,
                    and coming home for the first time I used the carrying chair which <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> has had rigged for donkeys – and
                    found it most successful. <persName ref="#Huhatt_Mr">Mr. Huhatt</persName> has
                    been as usual to lunch and to play chess. The <orgName ref="#Insingers"
                        >Insingers</orgName> have been to call etc. etc. <persName
                        ref="#Norman_Reginald">Reginald Norman</persName> and his brother <persName
                        ref="#Norman_Max">Max</persName>, the Rough Rider whom we left recovering
                    from fever in <placeName ref="#Newport">Newport</placeName>, came up in the
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Ramses_the_Great">Rameses the Great</name> to our
                    surprise, and came to dine. Very calm weather. The <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Luli_El_Nil">Lulèe el Nil</name> went off today, and we shall go
                    tomorrow if there is a breath of north wind. The moon is full, and the beauty of
                    the nights is beyond belief and what a view we have of the mountains opposite,
                    their soft yellow tones changing with every hour of the day. I can never weary
                    of this – night or day – each hour has its own charm, and I do not want to leave
                    the boat and lose it.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980127" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, Jan. 27. 34-1/2 miles.</title></p>
                <p>We got off this morning at 12 o’clock with a very light wind, which growing
                    stronger brought us at 11 o’clock to <placeName ref="#Esneh"
                    >Esneh</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980128" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday. Jan. 28. 41 miles.</title></p>
                <p>A fine wind began at 7 o’clock which has lasted <pb n="016"/> all day, and we
                    have made our best record. A splendid day – every hour delightful. We are about
                    10 miles south of <placeName ref="#Edfu">Edfu</placeName> – passed <placeName
                        ref="#El_Kab">El Kab</placeName> this morning. <persName
                        ref="#Somers-Clarke_Mr">Mr. Somers-Clarke</persName> not there – house shut
                    – no dahabeah. Brought up at 2:30 at <placeName ref="#Edfu">Edfu</placeName>
                    where we found the <name type="boat" ref="Luli_El_Nil">Lulèe el Nil</name>. The
                    rest went off to the Temple. The natives here very noisy and unmanageable. We
                    got away sometime after the <name type="boat" ref="Luli_El_Nil">the Lulie el
                        Nil</name>, but passed her in the evening and are now tied up near each
                    other. A splendid night – the sight of the full moon sailing up out of the
                    horizon was wonderful.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980129" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Septuagesima Sunday. Jan. 29. 31 miles. <placeName ref="#Kom_Ombo">Kom
                            Ombo</placeName>.</title></p>
                <p>Started at 7 – in good wind, reached <placeName ref="#Silsilis"
                        >Silsilis</placeName> at noon – and visited the quarries. The other boat
                    came up and joined us – and we both succeeded in reaching <placeName
                        ref="#Kom_Ombo">Kom Ombo</placeName> about 6 P.M. <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> has gone up with the girls from the
                    other boat to see the Temple by this pleasant soft moonlight.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980130" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Aswân. Jan. 30. Monday. 26 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Went up to the Temple after breakfast and were off at 10:30, sailing splendidly
                    into <placeName ref="#Aswan">Asswan</placeName> at 5 o’clock. The <name
                        type="boat" ref="Luli_El_Nil">Lulie el Nil</name> not far behind us. Found
                    the <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name>, <name type="boat" ref="#Hathor"
                        >Hathor</name>, <name type="boat" ref="#Cairo">Cairo</name>, <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Ammon_Ra">Ammon Ra</name>, <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Nephthis">Nephthis</name>, <name type="boat" ref="#Oonas"
                    >Oonas</name>, and <name type="boat" ref="#Isis">Isis</name> here – with <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Cheops">Cheops</name> and <name type="boat" ref="#Horus"
                        >Horus</name>. Difficult to find a place.</p>
            </div>
            <pb n="017"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980205" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Aswân – Feb. 5th. Sunday.</title></p>
                <p>We start tomorrow for <placeName ref="#Wady_Halfa">Wady Halfa</placeName>, with
                        <persName ref="#Lellie_Parsons">Mrs. Parsons</persName> and the girls. We
                    are really sorry to leave <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Prof.
                        Sayce</persName>, behind whose boat we are lying. He is suffering from a bad
                    case of blood poisoning – with a bad carbuncle on his neck just mending, and a
                    very bad finger with an inflamed arm – and being quite alone on his boat, his
                    situation has seemed so triste, that we have been having him with us most of the
                    time. He has dined with us almost every night, in spite of his protests about
                    his bandaged appearance. He gives us all the news we have had as to work along
                    the river. <persName ref="#Marquis_Northampton">The Marquis of
                        Northampton</persName> on his dahabeah <name type="boat" ref="#Maat"
                        >Mâat</name> has gone down earlier than usual, in order to put <persName
                        ref="#Northampton_Lady">Lady Northampton</persName> under the care of a
                    Paris doctor. It is feared that the nervous disorder of which she has been the
                    unhappy victim, is the forerunner of creeping paralysis. <persName
                        ref="#Northampton_Lady">The Marquess</persName> is bearing all the expense
                    of the excavations <persName ref="#Newberry_Mr">Newberry</persName> is making at
                        <placeName ref="#Thebes">Thebes</placeName> – and they have found a rich and
                    interesting tomb of one <persName ref="#Tahuti">Tahuti</persName>, “the beloved
                    friend of Queen Hatshepsowet”, and are on the track of another tomb – all the
                    finds go to the <name type="museum" ref="#Ghizeh_Museum">Ghizeh Museum</name> –
                    which is very generous on the part of the <persName ref="#Petrie-Flinders">M. of
                        N. Flinders-Petrie</persName> is excavating near Hou – and <persName
                        ref="#Quibell">Quibell</persName> and <persName ref="#Somers-Clarke_Mr"
                        >Somers-Clarke</persName> are still at work at Kom el Akmar opposite El Kab.
                    The latter has taken his boat up above the Cataract, but is expected down this
                    month. The weather has been comfortably warm here – we have spent one day at
                        <placeName ref="#Philae">Philae</placeName> – found the <orgName
                        ref="#Newmans">Newmans</orgName> there, and went down to their boat after
                    lunch. <persName ref="#Yemma">Yemma</persName> was there clean and well grown –
                    but very thin, having just recovered from pneumonia. Came home in one of <pb
                        n="018"/> the cataract boats – quite exciting, as the river is so full.
                    Thousands of workmen are now employed on the weir at Assouan. I went across the
                    desert to <placeName ref="#Philae">Philae</placeName> in the donkey chair – and
                    great numbers of masses of quarried stone are lying in orderly array along the
                    route – and blasting going on in various places, and red flags fluttering here
                    and there, and the beautiful red brown tint of the rocks bringing the bare white
                    surfaces of the lately quarried rocks into glaring and painful contrast, and
                    more painful still were the transformed shores of the river along the cataract.
                    Their beautiful isolation, and quiet loveliness, now broken with the sounds of
                    blasting – the raw surfaces of the newly cut rocks – the almost continuous
                    buildings of the agents and employees, hospitals, storehouses etc., steam
                    launches rushing about – and the barbaric quiet of the river gone for ever! It
                    is a pity! <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName> came to tea and
                    sat until after dark – looking very miserable indeed.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980206" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Feb. 6th. <name type="boat" ref="#S.S._Tewfik">S.S.
                        Tewfik</name>.</title></p>
                <p>We had an early breakfast and were across the river and off in time for the train
                    at 9 o’clock. Our cook came with us, as he wanted to see his old friends, having
                    been employed on this boat for two years. He took great pains to confide as to
                    the attention of all the servants. We find our former cook boy <persName
                        ref="#Tommy">Tommy</persName> among the crew. We were off at 11 o’clock –
                    and are delighted with this very comfortable, clean boat. There are not many
                    passengers, our rooms, the table, and the service, <pb n="019"/> are excellent.
                    We passed <placeName ref="#Dabâd">Dabâd</placeName> where is a temple of an
                    Ethiopian monarch, a contemporary of Ptolemy IV but did not stop – then
                        <placeName ref="#Cartassi">Cartassi</placeName> where are a ruined temple
                    and quarries – then <placeName ref="#Wady_Halfa">Wady Tafa</placeName> also with
                    temple ruins, then <placeName ref="#Kalâbsha">Kalâbsha</placeName> with its
                    temple built in the reign of <persName ref="#Augustus_Emperor"
                        >Augustus</persName> on an older foundation as stones with the names of
                        <persName ref="#Amenhotep_II">Amenhotep II</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Thothmes_III">Thothmes III</persName> have been found there. We saw
                    this on our former journey up here, and were little interested in it. Passed
                    also <placeName ref="#Kêt el-Wali">Kêt el-Wali</placeName>, with temple ruins of
                        <persName ref="#Ramses_II">Ramses II</persName> – arriving at <placeName
                        ref="#Dendur">Dendur</placeName> about 7 o’clock P.M. which was our first
                    stop, and where we spent the night – I did not go up with the rest to see the
                    temple. Made 52-1/2 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980207" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Feb. 7. Tuesday.</title></p>
                <p>Started at 5 o’clock – and made <placeName ref="#Dakka">Dakka</placeName>, where
                    we stopped to see a temple of Aeg-Amen, an Ethiopian king, built on foundation
                    of <persName ref="#Amenemhat_I">Amenemhat I</persName>. I did not go to see it.
                    Then we stopped at <placeName ref="#Wady es-Sabû à">Wady es-Sabû à</placeName>,
                    where is a temple of <persName ref="#Ramses_II">Ramses II</persName>, lying
                    almost buried in yellow sand – which was not inviting in the hot noon time.
                    Reached <placeName ref="#Korosko">Korosko</placeName>, the large and important
                    town at 7:30 where we spent the night, making 69 miles. We are impressed with
                    this part of the Nile – so different in its features from the lower part of the
                    river. The villages, desolate but clean looking – the houses so well and
                    squarely built – large with their domed roofs and many window openings, looking
                    almost attractive. The people look cleaner – but there are so few of them – and
                    what can they in this desert country live on!</p>
            </div>
            <pb n="020"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980208" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 8.</title></p>
                <p>This morning half of the passengers were called at 5 o’clock, to make the ascent
                    of the mountain at <placeName ref="#Korosko">Korosko</placeName> – and see the
                    sun rise – naturally the other half found their slumbers much interrupted by the
                    departure and arrival of the others. Before the <placeName ref="#Sudan"
                        >Sudan</placeName> trade was interfered with by the war years ago, this was
                    the point of departure for <persName ref="#Abu_Hamed">Abu Hamed</persName> – and
                    when we were here 7 years ago, there was a large and important garrison here,
                    which does not exist now. Stopped at <placeName ref="#Amada">Amada</placeName>
                    about noon, and I got out with the rest to see the temple founded by <persName
                        ref="#Usertsen_III">Usertesen III</persName> and added to and restored from
                    time to time by <persName ref="#Thotmes_III">Thotmes III</persName>
                    <persName ref="#Amenhetep_II">Amenhetep II</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Thotmes_IV">Thotmes IV</persName> and <persName ref="#Seti_I">Seti
                        I</persName> – whose cartouches we found. It needs excavating, as the sand
                    has almost covered and filled it. Fine dôm palms are showing themselves in
                    profusion – and the splendid drifts of yellow, yellow sand – what <persName
                        ref="#Edwards_Amelia">Miss Edwards</persName> happily describes as “snow
                    drifts turned to gold”. Between <placeName ref="#Amada">Amada</placeName> and
                        <placeName ref="#Derr">Derr</placeName>, the country is rich with splendid
                    palms – the best dates come from here. <placeName ref="#Kasr_Ibrim">Kasr
                        Ibrîm</placeName> we passed in the afternoon with its Roman ruins on the
                    cliffs, and rock tombs beneath – and we brought up at 8 o’clock at <placeName
                        ref="#Abu_Simbel">Abu Simbel</placeName> where we are now lying – the rest
                    went with their lanterns up to see it – but as we stop on our way down,
                        <persName ref="#Parsons_Lellie">Lellie Parsons</persName> and I stayed home.
                    We had a little sensation yesterday late in the afternoon when we came to where
                    the little steamer “<name type="boat" ref="#Edfu">Edfu</name>”, of the <orgName
                        ref="#Khedivial_line">Khedivial line</orgName> had been sticking in the sand
                    for 21 days. A large force of men were at work, and we stopped to give them a
                    pull – but in vain – and after breaking our cable twice, we left her. 68-1/2
                    miles.</p>
            </div>

            <pb n="021"/>
            <div xml:id="EBA18980209" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Feb. 9. <placeName ref="#Wady_Halfa">Wady
                        Halfa</placeName>.</title></p>
                <p>Left <placeName ref="#Abu_Simbel">Abu Simbel</placeName> early this morning – I
                    was awakened at 3 A.M. by the different people being aroused to see the Southern
                    Cross – and again by our early start. We reached <placeName ref="#Halfa"
                        >Halfa</placeName> at 11 o’clock, passing dahabeah <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Thames">“Thames”</name> on her way down. The country in spite of its
                    desert air, is interesting – and even beautiful, with its strange mountain
                    peaks, and the evidences everywhere of proplonged water action – and everything
                    partly submerged in yellow, pink sand drifts – no birds to be seen – many fine
                    dome like sycamores, and the finest tamarasks I have ever seen – the foliage so
                    thick and brightly green. We have made 40 miles. We drew up to what is an
                    entirely new quarter of <placeName ref="#Halfa">Halfa</placeName>, called
                        <placeName ref="#Tewfikyia">Tewfikyia</placeName> – good European houses,
                    new and clean – a fine modern mosque, bazaar, Greek shops, etc. All our people
                    chose to go to the 2d cataract this afternoon, instead of waiting for the
                    regular excursion in the morning. The wind was strong and cold, and sand flying
                    in clouds. They took one of the large sail boats, and with the Reis of the
                    steamer and several of the sailors started, not returning until we had nearly
                    finished dinner. They reported that they were not only able to sail up to the
                    rock of Abusir, but 3 miles beyond. I spent a quiet, nice afternoon with
                        <persName ref="#Parsons_Lellie">Mrs. Parsons</persName> – the whole boat
                    enveloped in canvass, to protect us from the wind and sand. However the little
                    open space in the center of the steamer, which really serves us as drawing room,
                    was very comfortable. It is where afternoon tea is served, and coffee. This
                    evening we took refuge in the dining saloon <pb n="022"/> as it was so cold. The
                    doctor of the Fort was on board, and was presented to us – and has invited us to
                    see the fort tomorrow.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980210" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, Feb. 10. <placeName ref="#Abu_Simbel">Abu
                        Simbel</placeName>.</title></p>
                <p>Immediately after breakfast we mounted donkeys and started for <persName
                        ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah’s</persName> house, stopping en route at the
                    Fort, two miles from <placeName ref="#Tewfikyia">Tewfikyia</placeName>. It is
                    very large – indeed is <placeName ref="#Halfa">Halfa</placeName> – with its
                    railway – machine shops – hospitals – prisons, officers’ quarters and barracks –
                    we saw the hospital, and a company of conscripts just arrived – and dervishes
                    working in chains. They were not permitted to show “Mamoud” whom we would like
                    to have seen – saw an interesting collection of dervish arms etc. – at the
                    doctor’s quarters – and a lovely little gazelle wandering about among the palms
                    of the little enclosure. A very dusty ride of 2 miles or more to <persName
                        ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah’s</persName> house – which we found greatly
                    improved since our last visit. We were shown into a large room well lighted with
                    good windows – nice rugs on the floor, and divan – and tea waiting for us – with
                    good china etc. The old mother, supposed to be over 90, and quite blind, was led
                    in by <persName ref="#Salah_Mohammed">Salah</persName> – and then he brought his
                    pretty wife <persName ref="#Tamai">Tamai</persName>, with a clean and very
                    pretty baby in her arms, who was frightened into tears at the sight of such
                    fearsome white beings as we were. <persName ref="#Tamai">Tamai</persName> has
                    grown a trifle stouter since I saw her 7 years ago – was well, even richly
                    dressed. She evidently hated to have us look at her baby. Home by one o’clock,
                    and off immediately for <placeName ref="#Abu Simbel">Abu Simbel</placeName>,
                    reaching here at 4:30. We went to the temples at once. <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Thames">“Thames”</name> lying <pb n="023"/> here – and post boat
                    stopped to allow her few passengers to see the temples. An elderly man was
                    pointed out to me as the <persName ref="#Earl_of_Carlisle">Earl of
                        Carlisle</persName> who had been to Khartoum to see the grave of his son,
                        <persName ref="#Howard_Mr">Mr. Howard</persName> who met his death, after
                    the battle in the streets of <placeName ref="#Omdurmân"
                    >Omdurmân</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980211" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Feb. 11.</title></p>
                <p>Got up at 6 to see the dawn on the faces of the splendid colossi – went again to
                    the great temple after breakfast – started at 10 o’clock – wind high and cold –
                    stopped at <placeName ref="#Derr">Derr</placeName>, about 2 o’clock – did not
                    get off – a crowd of the noisiest natives I ever saw, besieged the boat and made
                    a hideous din – passed <placeName ref="#Korosko">Korosko</placeName> at 5:30 –
                    and are still steaming down the river, and will not stop until we reach
                        <placeName ref="#Marakya">Marakya</placeName>. In getting away from
                        <placeName ref="#Derr">Derr</placeName> we broke one of the paddle blades,
                    and had to stop to repair it.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980212" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday evening – Feb. 12.</title></p>
                <p>It was a pleasant thought on waking this morning to know that we would reach home
                    this afternoon. We stopped for an hour at <placeName ref="#Kalabshi"
                        >Kalabshi</placeName> I did not go to the temple, which I had seen before,
                    and which is only interesting from its inscriptions which of course we could not
                    read. The most typical and barbaric crowd about the boat, offering Dervish arms,
                    dresses etc. for sale. Many of these people had served as officers servants
                    during the late campaign, and of course had possessed themselves of many
                    trophies – which they held at enormous prices. I saw one naked black boy,
                    clothed in a Seaforth Highlander waistcoat! and another <pb n="024"/> black
                    fellow with enormous white turban, and bristling with arms, smoking a pipe!
                    After we got away from <placeName ref="#Kalabshi">Kalabshi</placeName>, had a
                    nice little service, our pleasant little <persName ref="3Brockenbury_Vicar"
                        >vicar (Brockenbury)</persName> officiating – passed <persName
                        ref="#Somers-Clarke_Mr">Somers-Clarke</persName> boat at <placeName
                        ref="#Dabbôd">Dabbôd</placeName> – reached <placeName ref="#Shellal"
                        >Shellal</placeName> at 2 o’clock, and found it entirely en fête, <persName
                        ref="#Connaught_Duke_Duchess">the Duke and Duchess of Connaught</persName>
                    having arrived en route for <placeName ref="#Khartoum">Khartoum</placeName>.
                    Flags, pennants, everywhere, and the royal standard floating over the little
                    steamer on which they were. We were soon in one of the Cataract boats, making
                    the descent, and at 5 o’clock were once more on this blessed <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> – a band of happy pilgrims, home from their
                    wanderings. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bess</persName> crossed the river to <placeName
                        ref="#Asswan">Asswan</placeName>, stopping at the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Istar">Istar</name> on their way home, reporting <persName
                        ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName> better.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980213" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Feb. 13.</title></p>
                <p>Such a pleasant quiet day at home. <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr.
                        Sayce</persName> came to tea and afterwards to dinner – looking rather
                    better. <persName ref="#Somers-Clarke_Mr">Mr. Somers-Clarke</persName> came for
                    a call this morning, and <persName ref="#Parsons_Lellie">Mrs. Parson</persName>
                    and the girls, the vicar and his friend came down in a cataract boat, and made
                    us a farewell visit – as they went off on the Post boat at noon – expecting to
                    pick up their dahabeah between this and <placeName ref="#Esneh"
                        >Esneh</placeName>. <persName ref="#Craiks">The Craiks</persName>, the vicar
                    and <persName ref="#Brotherton_Mr">Mr. Brotherton</persName> came to tea also,
                    and everybody stayed later than everybody else. <persName
                        ref="#Somers-Clarke_Mr">Mr. Somers-Clarke</persName> left his boat at
                        <placeName ref="#Philae">Philae</placeName>, and rode over – not expecting
                    to come down for a few days. He says he found the upper Nile enchanting in a
                    dahabeah. He stopped at 60 places – and has made plans and drawings of 20. Happy
                    occupation! We are trying to persuade <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> to wait until Saturday, and start down in the company
                    of the <pb n="025"/>
                    <name type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> and <name type="boat" ref="#Althar"
                        >Althar</name> – but in vain. I am always struggling to get amongst these
                    Egyptologists for the interesting things they can give – but it is generally in
                    vain.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980214" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 14.</title></p>
                <p>We are ready to start tomorrow, having found <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> obstinate – <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary"
                        >Mary</persName> and I went to tea this afternoon on the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Istar">Istar</name>, and then took a last, little row in the charming
                    river among the rocks. Met on the <name type="boat" ref="Istar">Istar</name>,
                    Mr. Buxton of dahabeah <name type="boat" ref="#Nephthys">Nephthys</name> – and
                        <orgName ref="#Bellhavens">Lord and Lady Bellhaven</orgName> staying at the
                    hotel – <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName> came to
                    dinner.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980215" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 15.</title></p>
                <p>Started this morning at 9 and have made 15 miles.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980216" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, Feb. 16.</title></p>
                <p>Got off at 6 o’clock and have made about 13 miles – strong north wind – passed
                    the <name type="boat" ref="#Chonsu">Chonsu</name>, which lay just behind us at
                        <placeName ref="#Elephantine">Elephantine</placeName> at <placeName
                        ref="#Kom_Ombo">Kom Ombo</placeName>. Though small, she is a heavy, wooden
                    boat, and outfloats us entirely. We have pulled up to a low sand bank in the
                    river, and lying quite out in the water – without a visible human being near us.
                    I would always like to lie in such a spot – it is an ideal place to stop at –
                    the river itself so wide here, and the desert on each side wider still. We are
                    about two miles from <placeName ref="#Silsilis">Silsilis</placeName> – I stayed
                    on deck until 10 minutes of dinner time, and went up again after dinner. The
                    moon is still in her first quarter – and the stars so radiant – such beautiful
                        <pb n="026"/> loneliness – one could almost touch it, and feel the Divine
                    Creative force and meaning.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980217" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, Feb. 17. 6 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Off at 7 o’clock – north wind increasing – we however passed <placeName
                        ref="#Silsilis">Silsilis</placeName> soon after breakfast, and are lying
                    tonight only about 4 miles below – having fought our way along for even this
                    distance. Very warm and heavy clouds collected, and about 2 o’clock, a sand
                    storm broke upon us, and for an hour or more the heat was great, 78 on my
                    balcony. A beautiful rainbow afterwards – and tonight is serenely lovely and
                    cooler.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980218" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Feb. 18. 28 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Got off at 7 P.M. – calm – reached <placeName ref="#Edfou">Edfou</placeName> at
                    one o’clock, and stopped for certain things such as yeast, butter and such –
                    then the wind began to blow, and drifting and rowing we tied up 6 miles below
                        <placeName ref="#Edfou">Edfou</placeName>. Passed this morning dahabeah
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Cleopatra">Cleopatra</name> with tug going up – and
                    this P.M. also going up, the <name type="boat" ref="#uliette">Juliette</name>,
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Manhattan">Manhattan</name>, <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Gamilla">Gamilla</name> and one other. Warm - 76˚.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980219" type="Entry">
                <p><title>1st Sunday in Lent. Feb. 19. 23 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Starting at our usual time this morning, 7 o’clock – we reached <placeName
                        ref="#El_Kab">El Kab</placeName> at 9 o’clock – and went out to the tombs –
                    I riding a wretched little donkey, the others walking. It was just 6 years ago
                    that we did the same thing – and made <pb n="027"/> a visit to <persName
                        ref="#Tyler_Mr">Mr. Tyler</persName>, and <persName ref="#Somers-Clarke_Mr"
                        >Mr. Somers-Clarke</persName> who were then excavating there. We were warmly
                    welcomed by my old woman, and the three dogs who live at <persName
                        ref="#Somers-Clarke_Mr">Mr. Somers-Clarke’s</persName> house – and I fancy
                    all four will sleep more comfortably tonight, from the good feeding they got. We
                    are now at <placeName ref="#Esneh">Esneh</placeName> – a beautiful day – and
                    inspiring air – and a radiant night – wind a little cool. Passed a large
                    dahabeah going up – and one of the Khedivial steamers going up for <orgName
                        ref="#Connaughts">the Duke and Duchess of Connaught</orgName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980220" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, Feb. 20. Luxor. 34-1/2 miles.</title></p>
                <p>We reached here at 3 o’clock this afternoon – very warm indeed. Came again to our
                    old place under the Castle. Found only two dahabeahs here – and I never saw
                        <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName> so quiet.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980221" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, Feb. 21.</title></p>
                <p>Very high wind all day – <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> went to <placeName
                        ref="#Der_el_Medineh">Der el Medineh</placeName>.</p>
            </div>
            <div xml:id="EBA18980222" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Feb. 22.</title></p>
                <p>Cool weather with strong wind from the north. Rode into <placeName ref="#Luxor"
                        >Luxor</placeName> and <persName ref="#Huhat_Mr">Mr. Huhatt</persName> came
                    to play chess with <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, and
                    stayed to lunch. <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> spent the day at <placeName
                        ref="#Deir_el_Bahri">Deir el Bahri</placeName>.<pb n="028"/></p>
            </div>
            <div xml:id="EBA18980302" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Luxor, Thursday. March 2.</title></p>
                <p>We must start down the river tomorrow – though we hate the necessity. It is so
                    pleasant here – so many interesting things to do, and people to see. We have had
                    9 days here. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> has had
                        <persName ref="#Huhat_Mr">Mr. Huhatt</persName> almost every day to lunch –
                    and to play chess – I have crossed the river 3 times and had that charming ride,
                    on my best of little donkeys, Yankee Doodle Plymouth Rock! First, <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie"
                        >Bessie</persName> and I went to <placeName ref="#Gurnah"
                    >Gurnah</placeName>, to call on <persName ref="#Newberry">Mr.
                        Newberry</persName> whom we found at home. <orgName ref="#Spencers">Earl
                        Spencer and his wife</orgName> were making him a visit and after they went
                    away we looked at many of the beautiful things belonging to <persName
                        ref="#Newberry_Mr">Mr. Newberry</persName>. All the things found in their
                    excavations were packed and most of them on their way to the Museum. We had tea,
                    and then he and <persName ref="#Spiegelberg_Professor">Prof.
                        Spiegelberg</persName> who has been working with him all the winter showed
                    us one of the tombs they had opened, called the <placeName ref="#Gardeners_Tomb"
                        >Gardeners Tomb</placeName>, with very beautiful decorations in painting –
                    the colours bright as new. The tomb was just below the house of the Sheik which
                    they have been living in all winter. <persName ref="#Newberry_Mr">Mr.
                        Newberry</persName> asked us to go with him to some of the private tombs, I
                    had never seen – and the following Sunday morning <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie"
                        >Bessie</persName> and I went over after breakfast – charming morning. The
                    ride along the high canal embankment is now rather disagreeable, as hundreds of
                    workmen are busy digging out the silt, left from last years inundation. In this
                    way this great embankment grows higher and wider every year. The sun proved very
                    hot while we were clambering over and down the rough desert of that ancient
                    necropolis, with its yawning pits. We went first to one that had been delicately
                    beautiful in its low relief. <pb n="029"/> It is now inhabited by fellaheen, and
                    the sculptures are almost entirely buried in debris. Then to the tomb of
                        <persName ref="#Nakht">Nekht</persName> – then to one of <persName
                        ref="#Rekhmire">Rekh-ma-ra</persName>, who was Governor of Thebes, and died
                    in the reign of Amenhotep II. This tomb with its elaborate sculptures and
                    paintings, <persName ref="#Newberry_Mr">Mr. Newberry</persName> is doing for
                    publication, and we must have it when it comes out. It was delightful to have
                        <persName ref="#Newberry_Mr">Mr. Newberry</persName> show it to us, which he
                    did con amore – with every explanation. It was after 12 when we said goodbye to
                    him, he having promised to come to dinner with us the next night. We found him
                    more interesting than we thought – knows everybody and everything – began life
                    as a scientific botanist under <persName ref="#Hooker_Sir_Joseph">Sir Joseph
                        Hooker</persName> – and we fraternised at once over our mutual tastes in
                    gardening and architecture. Then we met <persName ref="#Carter_Howard">Mr.
                        Howard Carter</persName> – who has been doing such beautiful work at
                        <placeName ref="#Deir_el_Bahri">Der el Bahri</placeName>, for so long. He
                    also came to dine, and we went over and had tea with him the afternoon before we
                    came away – and I chose the subjects of two sketches he is to make for me –
                        <persName ref="#Ahmes_Queen">Queen Aahmes</persName> – and <persName
                        ref="#Sensenet_Queen">Queen Sensenet</persName>, Mother of <persName
                        ref="#Thothmes_I">Thothmes I</persName>. <orgName ref="#Buxtons">The
                        Buxtons</orgName>, who are on the <name type="name" ref="#Nepthys"
                        >Nepthys</name>, and whom we met at <placeName ref="#Aswan"
                        >Aswân</placeName>, taking tea with us one afternoon, told us that <persName
                        ref="#Buxton_Mrs">Mrs. Buxton’s</persName> (Gurney) grandfather’s
                    gamekeeper, was this young <persName ref="#Carter_Howard">Carter</persName>’s
                    father, and that he had great talent (the father) in drawing animals. An
                    interesting history – we came very near stumbling upon the <orgName
                        ref="#Connaughts">Duke and Duchess of Connaught</orgName> one afternoon as
                    we went to pay a visit to <orgName ref="#Buxtons">the Buxtons</orgName>. They
                    asked us to come again a little later, as the <persName ref="#Connaught_Duke"
                        >Duke</persName> had sent word that they were coming to have tea with them –
                    so we refrained from entering the boat. The<name type="boat" ref="#Nephtys">
                        Nephtys</name>, <name type="boat" ref="#Thames">Thames</name> and <name
                        type="boat" ref="#Istar">Istar</name> all came down the same day. Poor
                        <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName> is again in great
                    suffering <pb n="030"/> and under the surgical care of the doctor here.
                        <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and I went to see him
                    yesterday – he was in bed – but called to me to come and speak to him. It really
                    seems very serious. We have made the acquaintance of <persName
                        ref="#Murch_Chauncey">Mr. Chauncey Murch</persName>, the head of the
                        <orgName ref="#American_Mission">American Mission</orgName> here at
                        <placeName ref="#Luxor">Luxor</placeName>. He has been 15 years in
                        <placeName ref="#Egypt">Egypt</placeName> – and is a native of <placeName
                        ref="#Ohio">Ohio</placeName> – of <placeName ref="#Reynoldsburg"
                        >Reynoldsburg</placeName>, nor far from <placeName ref="#Columbus"
                        >Columbus</placeName>, where I used sometimes to drive as a child with my
                    father. <persName ref="#Murch_Chauncey">Mr. Murch</persName> is really huge – a
                    nice little wife. He has the most rare and beautiful collection of scarabs I
                    have ever seen – and of small objects. Our old friend <persName
                        ref="#Mohassib_Mohammed">Mohammed Mohassib</persName> has had some very
                    interesting things. Among others some pre-historic mummies – brought from
                        <placeName ref="#Nagada">Nagada</placeName>. One of which <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> bought, and is going to present it
                    to the <orgName ref="#MMA">Metropolitan Museum of New York</orgName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980303" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, March 3d.</title></p>
                <p>
                    <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and I went to see <persName
                        ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName> this morning – but I did not see
                    him. He reported himself going on as well as could be hoped – we got away about
                    noon, in a light north wind, passed the <name type="boat" ref="#Nepthys"
                        >Nepthys</name> lying at <placeName ref="#Karnak">Karnac</placeName>. Have
                    made about 17-1/2 miles and are now some 5 miles south of <placeName
                        ref="#Nagada">Nagada</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980304" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, March 4th.</title></p>
                <p>Have made only 7-1/2 miles, and are 2 miles below <placeName ref="#Nagada"
                        >Nagada</placeName>. Day cool – but wind very fitful. <pb n="031"/></p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980305" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Third Sunday in Lent. March 5th.</title></p>
                <p>An early start, but have accomplished little. Are now within 2 or 3 miles of
                        <placeName ref="#Keneh">Keneh</placeName>. The wind has raged at times.
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Nephthys_The">The Nephthys</name> appeared early in
                    the afternoon, and <orgName ref="#Buxtons">the Buxtons</orgName> and <persName
                        ref="#Gurney_Miss">Miss Gurney</persName> came to tea. We are now lying at
                    anchor, both boats, almost side by side.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980306" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, March 6. 14 miles.</title></p>
                <p>We have struggled with the wind all day, and are now lying near the bank about 12
                    miles below <placeName ref="#Keneh">Keneh</placeName>. <orgName ref="#Buxtons"
                        >The Buxtons</orgName> stopped there. I love to lie near some desert shore,
                    or best some lonely stretch of sand, and anchored near the land. The feeling of
                    being so apart, the lapping of the water and the silence, all, all,
                    delightful.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980307" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, March 7. 17 miles.</title></p>
                <p>The same history for the day – an early start, baffling winds, then calms, until
                    as usual about 4 o’clock a regular gale began – and we lay sometime at anchor,
                    until we finally pulled to shore, starting again about 9 o’clock, and going a
                    short distance, about 10 miles above <placeName ref="#Nagh_Hamadi">Nagh
                        Hamadi</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980308" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, March 8. 14 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Started early, and reached <placeName ref="#Nagh Hamadi">Nagh Hamadi</placeName>
                    about 10 o’clock, finding the bridge closed, so we tied up to the float next the
                    bridge, and waited for the three o’clock <pb n="032"/> opening. The day very
                    hot. Soon after the <name type="boat" ref="#Manhattan">“Manhattan”</name> came
                    down, and took a position behind us – and in the distance the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Nepthys">Nepthys</name> appeared, but she was too far behind to take
                    advantage of that opening, and I suppose will have to wait for tomorrow 6
                    o’clock A.M. We got through with some little excitement, and have made 4 miles
                    since, and are lying at an island, with the <name type="boat" ref="#Manhattan"
                        >Manhattan</name> near.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980309" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, March 9. 38-1/2 miles.</title></p>
                <p>We have done very well today, and are now 4 miles below <placeName
                        ref="#Menshieh">Menshieh</placeName>, or 3-1/2 miles south of <placeName
                        ref="#Akmin">Akmim</placeName>. Very hot - 85˚ on my cabana, and the mercury
                    standing at 50 this morning.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980310" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, March 10. 26 miles.</title></p>
                <p>We started early - I heard the sailors at their oars by 5:30 - and at 8:30, we
                    were tying up at the handsome town of <placeName ref="#Sohag">Sohag</placeName>
                    - to get our mail and provisions. We must have been there two hours - and pulled
                    up at 7:30 this evening within 7 miles of <placeName ref="#Tahtah"
                        >Tahtah</placeName>. Calms and contrary winds all day. Much cooler than
                    yesterday. We have been struggling with a great batch of newspapers today - all
                    of them full of extraordinary storms in <placeName ref="#America"
                        >America</placeName>, and the unprecedented cold - which is hard for us to
                    realize. They bring too, the welcome news of <persName ref="#Kipling"
                        >Kipling</persName>’s improvement, who has been so ill with pneumonia. He is
                    now said to be out of danger. The world can ill spare such a mind and spirit.
                        <pb n="033"/></p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980311" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Mar. 11. 22 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Started at 5:30 – with the exception of about 3 hours of calm, we have had
                    baffling north winds all day – very warm – deck disagreeable. We are now about 2
                    or 3 miles north of <placeName ref="#Gaen">Gaen</placeName>, and are lying
                    pleasantly anchored near the shore.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980312" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Fourth Sunday in Lent. Mar. 12. 15 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Reached <placeName ref="#Aboutig">Aboutig</placeName> at one o’clock, where we
                    stayed two hours – <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> writing
                    and telegraphing <orgName ref="#Thomas_Cook_and_Sons">Cook</orgName> at
                        <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> about our passage across to
                        <placeName ref="#Italy">Italy</placeName>. High north wind much of the time
                    all day, in spite of the heat. <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> walked into the town to
                    the P.O. with the sailors. While they were away, I sat out in the shade of my
                    cabana, and looked at the white heat that pervaded the world. Across the water
                    at the edge of a broad stretch of sand, were two large groups of native men,
                    engaged in some disputation. I took my glass and watched them – and could not
                    but admire their gestures and bearing – in spite of their heavy, trailing
                    garments of black and dark brown, which looked so inappropriate – and, as they
                    in the heat of argument threw their white scarfs off, and again on, they might
                    have served as studies to a school of acting. At last they separated, going
                    their ways across the burning sand, striding along, one after the other. The
                    country is full of poppy fields in bloom – such pretty pictures they make along
                    the bank. </p>
            </div>
            <pb n="034"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980313" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, March 13. 20 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Reached <placeName ref="#Asyut">Asyut</placeName> at 11 o’clock, and stopped long
                    enough to get our mail. I had some nice letters – one from <persName
                        ref="#Norman_Mrs">Mrs. Norman</persName>, full of wailing about the dreadful
                    winter at home. One from <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName>,
                    saying he was able to walk a little, and the Doctor thought him progressing
                    favorably. After quitting <placeName ref="#Asyut">Asyut</placeName>, we passed
                    the place of the future barrage – where 3 or 4 thousand men are at work. It was
                    a scene from the Inferno – dust – turmoil – smoke of machines – shrieks of steam
                    – inconceivable – and in such a heat! I was thankful when a turn in the river
                    hid the hideous sight. We had the fowls out for a little while, and <persName
                        ref="#Dick">Dick</persName> came up to the deck to see me, and get his
                    biscuit. A little new moon has appeared.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980314" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, Mar. 14. 36-1/2 miles.</title></p>
                <p>A very hot gray day – like a Kamseen, without the wind. Occasionally a gentle
                    south wind which carried us along successfully the whole <placeName
                        ref="#Abu_Fedo">Abu Feda</placeName> chain, with its dangerous bends. A very
                    hot night - 86˚ on the cabana, and 82 in my room!</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980315" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, Mar. 15. <placeName ref="#Minia">Minia</placeName>. 48-1/2
                        miles.</title></p>
                <p>We have had a beautiful run, and are now ahead of our time. The heat has been
                    great – of a more trying quality than that of yesterday – still very gray and
                    overcast, and apparently threatening rain every moment. Lying at the
                    disagreeable bank of <placeName ref="#Minia">Minia</placeName>.</p>
            </div>
            <pb n="035"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980316" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday. Mar. 16. 28-1/2 miles.</title></p>
                <p>A perfectly calm, translucent grey day, sometimes a light wind from the north.
                    The men have worked hard with their oars, and we are now near <placeName
                        ref="#Sheik_Fadl">Sheik Fadl</placeName> – and can see the lights of the
                    great sugar factories – I think we must be within two miles of it. Have spent
                    most of the day down stairs writing. Have finished my questions on the
                    Constitution of the United States. Every moment today has threatened rain –
                    mercury at 85˚! We are lying out in the stream – both of my big windows are
                    uncurtained, and I look out unimpeded on the night, with the water softly
                    gurgling about the boat. How I love it!</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980317" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, Mar. 17. 32-1/2 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Another gray and very hot day, until late in the afternoon when the wind grew
                    strong, coming in gusts, and tonight it is from the north and cold. We are
                    within 4 miles of <placeName ref="#Fashen">Fashen</placeName> – we saw our young
                    moon last night for the first time. Thermometer 90 on deck today. We smashed our
                    bowsprit this afternoon, the wind driving us on the bank.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980318" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, Mar. 18. 28 miles.</title></p>
                <p>A gray day again, but cooler – and several times rain has fallen. We were driven
                    below by quite a smart little shower this morning – saw one of the most
                    beautiful pelicans – with bill quite red in under portion, and green above.
                    Rowed <pb n="036"/> until after 8 o’clock – and are now 5 miles below <placeName
                        ref="#Benisoef">Benisoef</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980319" type="Entry">
                <p><title>5th Sunday in Lent. Mar. 19. 28 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Stopped at <placeName ref="#Wasta">Wasta</placeName> for mail this morning at 11
                    o’clock – and tied up at 6 o’clock tonight 26 miles from <placeName
                        ref="#Bedrasheyn">Bedrasheyn</placeName>. Day hot – and wind cold. How we do
                    hate to be winding up the pleasant Nile days – and how I shall miss my charming
                    room. The brilliant nights, when with uncurtained windows I could look out upon
                    the night – the swiftly flowing river – the desert, or the palm fringed shore.
                    The early morning readings in bed, or the watching of the dawn. How tame the
                    land will seem, and how shut in and stifling a curtained room will seem! Then
                    how comfortable to move from place to place with no packing to do – simply to
                    keep on one’s way in one’s own house!</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980320" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, March 20. 26 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Are once more lying at <placeName ref="#Bedrasheyn">Bedrasheyn</placeName>, which
                    we reached at 7 o’clock. Strong wind from the north.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980321" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, March 21. 15 miles.</title></p>
                <p>Started very early this morning – and reached the Museum landing at <placeName
                        ref="#Ghizeh">Ghizeh</placeName> at 9:30. Our old man, the guardian of the
                    Museum barge, was very glad to see us, and we found the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Luli_el_Nil">Loulie-el-Nil</name>, lying just in front of us – and her
                    Captain and sailors welcomed us warmly, and with ready help. We are very glad to
                    have got <pb n="037"/> a berth here as it is so convenient to visit the Museum.
                        <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> went to town, and came
                    back with our mail, and <persName ref="#Mohammed_Salah">Salah</persName>,
                    bringing his arms full of flowers for me. <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary"
                        >Mary</persName> and I drove into town in the afternoon, and met <persName
                        ref="#Newberry_Mr">Mr. Newberry</persName>, and asked him to dine tomorrow.
                    He came on the train this morning, and said he passed us below <placeName
                        ref="#Bedresccheyn">Bedrescheyn</placeName> this morning at 6 o’clock. We
                    drove about the orange gardens on our way home. Alas! owing to some disease last
                    year, they have all been shorn of their branches, and cut almost to the ground,
                    and all the diseased branches and leaves have been left everywhere as they fell
                    from the trees, and are now quite withered and dry – and have fully no doubt,
                    impregnated the ground with their disease germs – when this has been thoroughly
                    accomplished, they will cart them away – and this is the native method with
                    everything in life – and this is why Egyptians and <placeName ref="#Egypt"
                        >Egypt</placeName> will always need an intelligent domineering.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980322" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, March 22.</title></p>
                <p>We all went over early to the <orgName ref="#Cairo_Museum">Museum</orgName> this
                    morning – and how pleasant it was to see it all again. The new finds are
                    enormously interesting. One of the most remarkable is a statue of bronze, heroic
                    size, found at <placeName ref="#Kom_el_Ahmar">Kom el-Ahmar</placeName>, opposite
                        <placeName ref="#El_Kab">El Kab</placeName>, by <persName ref="#Quibell_Mr"
                        >Mr. Quibell</persName> – with a smaller statue near it of the same
                    material; and the gold hawks head that we saw last year on <persName
                        ref="#Somers-Clarke_Mr">Mr. Somers-Clarke</persName>'s dahabeah, found at
                    the same place, and above all a large slate, from the same place, and with the
                    name of a king preceeding <persName ref="#Mena">Mena</persName> – a most
                    remarkable piece. We spent a long time among all the beautiful little objects up
                    stairs – and I <pb n="038"/> looked at the mummy of the beautiful <persName
                        ref="#Nefertari">Nefertari</persName> and fancied I could trace lines of
                    beauty in the shrunken black face – and wondered why she was not laid beside her
                    victorious and famous husband <persName ref="#Aahmes">Aahmes</persName>, the
                    first king of the 18th dynasty. We met <persName ref="#Newberry_Mr">Mr.
                        Newberry</persName> there, and he showed us such interesting things – and he
                    introduced <persName ref="#Quibell_Mr">Mr. Quibell</persName>, and also
                        <persName ref="#Bissing_Baron_von">Baron von Bissing</persName>, a very
                    clever young scholar who is working at the <orgName ref="#Cairo_Museum"
                        >Museum</orgName>. <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> and I drove
                    in the afternoon and we had a charming evening with <persName ref="#Newberry_Mr"
                        >Mr. Newberry</persName> – and we talked <placeName ref="#Egypt"
                        >Egypt</placeName> and things Egyptian galore. The moon is almost full now –
                    and I enjoy the nights, with my curtains not drawn and all the night looking in
                    upon me.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980323" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, March 23.</title></p>
                <p>Again at the <orgName ref="#Cairo_Museum">Museum</orgName> this morning – though
                    first <persName ref="#Newberry_Mr">Mr. Newberry</persName> came by appointment
                    to go to <persName ref="#Ali">Ali the Antiquity man</persName> in <placeName
                        ref="#Ghirgeh">Ghirgeh</placeName> with us. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> bought some good things – we stumbled by chance in the
                        <orgName ref="#Cairo_Museum">Museum</orgName> after <persName
                        ref="#Newberry_Mr">Mr. Newberry</persName> left us, upon a room entirely
                    filled with things from the tomb of <persName ref="#Amenophis_III">Amenophis
                        III</persName> which was found last year by <persName ref="#Loret_M">M.
                        Loret</persName> of the Museum. Such wonderful blue glazes – and such
                    exquisite work! In the afternoon <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName>
                    and I drove out almost to the Pyramids. It was tremendously hot – and a high
                    wind blowing as it has blown for days. One of our horses soon after we turned to
                    come home, had the blind staggers – <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary"
                        >Mary</persName> and I easily stepped out of the Victoria, the coachman and
                        <persName ref="#Mohammed_Salah">Salah</persName> sprang from the box – but
                    these people are so unready and helpless in an emergency – they could not
                    relieve the poor animal of the harness – a mounted gens d’armes fortunately
                    arrived, and gave <pb n="039"/> what help he could – the horse at last struggled
                    on his feet, and then began the wildest scene, the poor beast crazed, kicked
                    everything to pieces, overturned the nice carriage, which by great exertion on
                    the part of <persName ref="#Mohammed_Salah">Salah</persName> and the coachman
                    was just saved as it was going over the embankment – the dash board, dashes,
                    lamps were smashed – the pole broken in 3 pieces – the harness a wreck. The
                    other horse behaved most beautifully and intelligently – as quiet as possible,
                    and showed such concern for the sick one, that it was quite touching. Everyone
                    who passed offered assistance, but we sent to the <name type="hotel"
                        ref="#Mena_House">Mena House</name> for another carriage, and arrived at
                    home a few minutes before dinner.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980324" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, March 24.</title></p>
                <p><orgName ref="#Cairo_Museum">Museum</orgName> – driving – <persName
                        ref="#Newberry_Mr">Mr. Newberry</persName> to lunch – very hot – wind still
                    very strong.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980325" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, March 25.</title></p>
                <p>Another morning at the <orgName ref="#Cairo_Museum">Museum</orgName>, and
                        <persName ref="#Quibell_Mr">Mr. Quibell</persName> to lunch – a kamseen day
                    – dry – hot – windy – I declined going out.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980326" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday, March 26. Sunday before Easter.</title></p>
                <p>A very hot morning - <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> drove into town - <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> to the <orgName
                        ref="#Cairo_Museum">Museum</orgName>, a long visit from <persName
                        ref="#Paterson_Mr">Mr. Paterson</persName> which prevented me from doing
                    what I had devoted the morning to do. At home all day - <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Thames">“Thames”</name> came down today - and <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Ammon_Ra">the Ammon-Ra</name> last evening with a tug. Saw <orgName
                        ref="#Buxtons">the Buxtons</orgName> today. Very gray and stormy - some rain
                    fell two or three times. Too unpleasant to be on deck.</p>
            </div>
            <pb n="040"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980327" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, March 27.</title></p>
                <p><persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and I went into town today to
                    antiquity shops - met <persName ref="#Newberry_Mr">Mr. Newberry</persName> and
                    persuaded him to come to lunch - and we talked <orgName ref="#Cairo_Museum"
                        >Museum</orgName> matters all the time. <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary"
                        >Mary</persName> drove him home, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName>
                    went to ride as they do every day - and I began my little arrangements for
                    packing. Much fever in <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> - it is said.
                        <persName ref="#Newberry_Mr">Mr. Newberry</persName> starts today for
                        <placeName ref="#England">England</placeName>. <persName
                        ref="#Bissing_Baron_von">Baron von Bissing</persName> came to dine - very
                    clever - nervous, interesting - talks a great deal - has the clearest and
                    keenest eyes I have ever seen.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980328" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, March 28.</title></p>
                <p>A great change in the temperature since yesterday - it is gray - cold - and a
                    howling wind. We had all the canvass down on the deck - but there was such a
                    flapping and such a blow, we could hardly pack up there. These last days of
                    packing are so triste and trying - and the <name type="boat" ref="#Beduin"
                        >Beduin</name> grows in spite of it the more attractive, as these last days
                    draw on - I hate to leave this river life.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980331" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Good Friday - March 31st.</title></p>
                <p>We came to the <name type="hotel" ref="#Ghezireh_Palace_Hotel">Ghezireh Palace
                        Hotel</name> on Wednesday afternoon - quitting the <name type="boat"
                        ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name> with sad hearts - we have the same big rooms
                    overlooking the garden we had two years ago. The weather has been very bad, cold
                    - with such tremendous winds. The storm along the coast has been so great that
                    steamers have not been able to leave <placeName ref="#Alexandria"
                        >Alexandria</placeName> for days. Snow on the Continent and skating in
                        <placeName ref="#England">England</placeName>! Not a good prospect for <pb
                        n="041"/> sailing as we expect to do on the 3d April, from <placeName
                        ref="#Port_Said">Port Said</placeName> for <placeName ref="#Brindisi"
                        >Brindisi</placeName>. We have been to the boat every day - and have this
                    afternoon said good-bye to the sailors who go to their homes up the river at
                    once. <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> begins to look deserted - and
                    this hotel a vast wilderness.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980401" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, April 1st.</title></p>
                <p>Visits to the antiquity shops this morning - and immediately after luncheon a
                    last drive and visit to the <name type="boat" ref="#Beduin">Beduin</name>. All
                    the sailors had left - and there only remained <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Rais
                        Fuli</persName> and <persName ref="#Abdul">Abdul</persName>, and a friend of
                        <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Fuli</persName>'s who is to stay with them. She
                    will drop down a little way tomorrow, to a better resting place for the summer.
                    She is in her dress of coarse canvass, shrouded entirely. On the lower deck,
                    this canvass was lifted on the river side and everything was so clean and
                    orderly I felt like stopping forever. <persName ref="#Dick">Dick</persName>,
                    with his little white hen, strutted across the gangway to have a last biscuit
                    from me, and even the geese swam around to have a last look at us. Then back to
                    the <name type="hotel" ref="#Gezireh_Palace_Hotel">Gezireh</name> - <persName
                        ref="#Bissing_Baron_von">Baron von Bissing</persName> came to tea, and for a
                    final talk about Egyptian matters - <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> was so tired, I thought he would have fallen
                    asleep.</p>
            </div>
            <div xml:id="EBA18980406" type="Entry">
                <p><title><placeName ref="#Brindisi">Brindisi</placeName> - April 6.</title></p>
                <p>We arrived in port about midnight and had decided to stay on the steamer and take
                    breakfast, but what with many passengers going off at once, and the others to
                    catch the 7 o’clock A.M. train, there was but little sleep to be had. We left
                        <placeName ref="#Cairo">Cairo</placeName> on Easter morning at 10 o’clock -
                        <persName ref="#Fuli_Rais">Fuli</persName>, <persName ref="#Abdul"
                        >Abdul</persName>, the Cook, <persName ref="#Mohammed_Salah"
                        >Salah</persName> and <persName ref="#Landus_Mr">Mr. Landus</persName> to
                    see us off. A <pb n="042"/> very tiring, dusty ride to <placeName
                        ref="#Ismailia">Ismailia</placeName> which we reached at 3 o’clock and where
                    we changed cars, for <placeName ref="#Port_Said">Port Said</placeName>, where we
                    arrived about 7 o’clock, an uncomfortable dinner in the overcrowded hotel, where
                    we met <orgName ref="#Buxtons">the Buxtons</orgName> who were going off in the
                        <name type="boat" ref="#Arabia">Arabia</name> for <placeName
                        ref="#Marseilles">Marseilles</placeName>, and then we went out to our own
                    boat the <name type="boat" ref="#Osiris">Osiris</name>, P. &amp; O. and went
                    comfortably and early to bed in our clean looking cabins. We had to wait until
                    the morning for the <name type="boat" ref="#Arabia">Arabia</name>, for the mails
                    - and were off at 9 o’clock on the 3d and went immediately into the most
                    tempestuous sea I ever knew, which grew worse as each hour went by - until
                    finally smashing part of the bridge and the forward galley, the boat was put at
                    a low rate of speed. I was comfortably taking my breakfast in bed when we
                    started - I never finished it, and I did not leave my berth until last evening,
                    for dinner. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, the Captain,
                    one other officer and <persName ref="#Daniel_Jones">Jones</persName>, were the
                    only persons at table, and the ships doctor was in bed all the way over. We
                    decided we would never again try this route. We are rather comfortable here.
                    Took a bright drive about this bare and dreary town and country this afternoon -
                    and will take the early train to <placeName ref="#Rome">Rome</placeName>
                    tomorrow morning. </p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980409" type="Entry">
                <p><title><name type="hotel" ref="#Hotel_Bristol">Hotel Bristol</name>. First Sunday
                        after Easter. April 9.</title></p>
                <p>Arrived evening before last at 7:30 - after a long journey of 13 hours - which
                    was not as tiring as I had feared it would be. But after our rude experience at
                    sea, I find my head still going round and <pb n="043"/> round, and my legs
                    failing. We are in our pleasant old rooms overlooking the <placeName
                        ref="#Piazza_Barberini">Piazza Barberini</placeName>. I went out this
                    afternoon, but only to <placeName ref="#St_Peters">St. Peters</placeName> -
                    where we stayed some time - and I walked up and down that splendid building,
                    until I was tired. Day damp and rainy and cold. We find <persName
                        ref="#Andersen">Andersen</persName> looking much better; he takes most of
                    his meals with us. After <placeName ref="#St_Peters">St. Peters</placeName> we
                    went to the <orgName ref="#Elliotts">Elliotts</orgName> and found them at home.
                        <persName ref="#Bull_Dr">Dr. Bull</persName> dined with us.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980410" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, April 10.</title></p>
                <p>Raining and cold. <orgName ref="#Elliots">The Elliots</orgName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andersen">Andersen</persName> dined with us.</p>
            </div>
            <div xml:id="EBA18980411" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, April 11.</title></p>
                <p>Went to the <placeName ref="#Palazzo Patriècè">Palazzo Patriècè</placeName> to
                    see the pictures with <persName ref="#Jeubert_M">M. Jeubert</persName>. A
                    desperately dismal palace, and not a picture that I would have had. Did some
                    rummaging about in an old shop, and then drove in the fine, bracing cold air on
                    the <placeName ref="#Pincian">Pincian</placeName>. At home in the afternoon.
                        <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> hard at work every day sight seeing.
                        <persName ref="#Freufanellé-Cibo_Countess">Countess
                        Freufelli-Cibo</persName> called.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980412" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, April 12.</title></p>
                <p>Steady, hard rain all the morning - for a short drive in the afternoon. <persName
                        ref="#Richter_Dr">Dr. Richter</persName> here for a long time. In spite of
                    rain went with <persName ref="#ELliot_John">Mr. Elliot</persName> to the house
                    of the artist Villegas and saw and bought some nice stuffs.</p>
            </div>
            <pb n="044"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980413" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, April 13.</title></p>
                <p>Drove in the rain to the <orgName ref="#Colonna_Gallery">Colonna
                        Gallery</orgName>. Met <persName ref="#Alexander_Ms">Miss
                        Alexander</persName> there, <persName ref="#Busk_Daisy">Daisy
                        Busk</persName>'s friend - asked her to tea on Saturday. Home in the rain,
                    growling at the weather. <persName ref="#Richter_Dr">Dr. Richter</persName> to
                    lunch - and did not leave the house again. <persName ref="#Fielding_Mr">Basil
                        Fielding</persName> called. He is now Father Fielding, mature, and somewhat
                    less exuberant - and very devote.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980414" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, April 14th.</title></p>
                <p>Met <persName ref="#Hobson_Mr">Mr. Hobson</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Andersen">Andersen</persName> at the <placeName ref="#Vatican"
                        >Vatican</placeName> this morning by appointment, and went through the
                        <placeName ref="#Borgia_appartments">Borgia appartments</placeName>. Saw
                        <orgName ref="#Bradleys">the Bradleys</orgName> there. Then I made a bold
                    effort to get into the <orgName ref="#Museo_Cristiano">Museo
                    Cristiano</orgName>, which I had never seen, and after traversing the great
                    galleries back to the entrance, we gained the door to the <orgName
                        ref="#Bibliotèque">Bibliotèque</orgName>, through which we had to walk,
                    before reaching the <orgName ref="#Museo">Museo</orgName>. Here we found all the
                    pictures shut away behind glass cases, which were locked, and no catalogues -
                    and the attendants ignorant and surly. I had a small list which I had gathered
                    from <persName ref="#Berenson">Berenson</persName>’s Italian Central Painters.
                    There are beautiful treasures of Sienese and Umbrian art. Home just in time for
                    luncheon - and <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> and I went at 5
                    o’clock to a reception at <persName ref="#Freufanellé-Cibo_Countess">Countess
                        Freufelli-Cibo’s</persName> which was nice - she so cordial - and so many
                    Italian people, - Duchesses, Princesses galore - I talked with many pleasant
                    people. In the evening <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and I
                    went to dine at the Palazzo Borghese with <persName ref="#Bronson_Mrs">Mrs.
                        Bronson</persName> - a beautiful dinner, several people and a very grand
                    appartment. Well tired tonight. <pb n="045"/></p>
            </div>
            <div xml:id="EBA18980415" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, April 15.</title></p>
                <p>We are ready to make an early start tomorrow. It has rained all day - I did a
                    little shopping this morning, and <persName ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName>,
                        <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> and I drove over to
                        <placeName ref="#St.
                        Peters">St. Peters</placeName>
                    in the afternoon to find it closed in preparation for the great anniversary of
                    the Pope’s coronation tomorrow. The venerable Pope has now well recovered from
                    the serious operation he has lately gone through, and is pronounced able to bear
                    the excitement. It rained so hard that I came home, while <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Mary">Mary</persName> and <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie"
                        >Bessie</persName> went to some churches. <persName ref="#Alexander_Ms">Miss
                        Alexander</persName> came to tea and <persName ref="#Bronson_Mrs">Mrs. and
                        Miss Bronson</persName> came to say goodbye. <persName ref="#Fielding_Mr"
                        >Basil Fielding</persName> dined, and stayed a long time talking.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980417" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, April 17.</title></p>
                <p>Not a bad journey from <placeName ref="#Rome">Rome</placeName> yesterday. I slept
                    much of the time. <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie Buttles</persName>, and
                        <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> with <persName
                        ref="#Hassan">Hassan</persName> met us - and we came to our old quarters at
                    the <name type="hotel" ref="#Grande_Bretagne">Grande Bretagne</name>. The
                    weather still à la pluie. The <placeName ref="#Arno_River">Arno</placeName>
                    full. <persName ref="#Andersen">Andersen</persName> came with us from <placeName
                        ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName>. <persName ref="#Berenson_Bernard">Mr.
                        Berenson</persName> came to dine. This morning I went after breakfast to the
                        <placeName ref="#Villino">Villino</placeName> to see the much talked of
                    little house - and found it charming - full of pretty and valuable things -
                    clean, modern, and convenient and a sweet little garden. I was charmed with it,
                    and with their satisfaction in it. Then <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette"
                        >Nettie</persName> and I went to the <orgName ref="#Academia"
                        >Academia</orgName>, and had a beautiful time. There is no one I so enjoy
                    going to a gallery with. Some very remarkable and beautiful tapestires have been
                    hung there in the long corridor - once a part of the Medician riches -
                    delightful things. This afternoon, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> and I
                    drove up to <persName ref="Castello_Mrs">Mrs. Castello’s</persName> in the <pb
                        n="046"/> rain to have tea, and see her and <persName
                        ref="#Berenson_Bernard">Berenson’s</persName> pretty things. We met there
                    her brother <persName ref="#Logan-Smith_Mr">Mr. Logan-Smith</persName>, and a
                    young <persName ref="#Fielding_Percy">Percy Fielding</persName> a cousin of our
                    friends - and we had good tea and buttered toast in a charming hall overlooking
                    the valley, surrounded with quaint things, looking at Sienese paintings and
                    discussing its beauties, and many things besides, and had a charming time, and
                    stayed an unconscionable time, and drove home in the rain, dressed and drove to
                        <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie’s</persName> and dined - and enjoyed
                    ourselves hugely.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980418" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, April 18.</title></p>
                <p><persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I went to the <orgName
                        ref="#Ufizzi">Ufizzi</orgName> this morning, and stayed until we were blind
                    with fatigue. In the afternoon we all went to a reception at <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie’s</persName> which she was very anxious to give
                    me - and I met many of her friends, who were most cordial. The house looked
                    charming -<persName ref="#Berenson_Bernard">Mr. Berenson</persName> came to
                    dine.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980419" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, April 19.</title></p>
                <p>Went with <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> this morning across
                    the river to the antiquity shop of <persName ref="#Constantine"
                        >Constantine</persName> to see a lovely medallion of Madonna and Child by
                    Mino da Fiesole, that <persName ref="#Berenson_Bernard">Berenson</persName> had
                    told him about. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> decided to
                    buy it - but felt the embarrassment of getting it out of the country - it is
                    necessary to be very quiet about it, as its history is so peculiar and
                    interesting. It came from the unimportant church of St. Bridget in <placeName
                        ref="#Rome">Rome</placeName> only a short time since. <persName
                        ref="#Constantine">Constantine</persName>, prowling <pb n="047"/> about some
                    months ago for treasures came upon this church and persuaded the sacristan or
                    priest to allow him to have a copy made to replace the original - it was done,
                    the Mino gave place to the copy, the church received the money, and the precious
                    Mino goes to America to take her place in our hall, and to administer to us
                    daily some of the sweet peace and pure beauty of that XVth century art. A young
                    man, the son of <persName ref="#Constantine">Constantine</persName>, who lived
                    some time in <placeName ref="#New York">New York</placeName>, and was a clerk at
                        <orgName ref="#Tiffany’s">Tiffany’s</orgName> and who speaks excellent
                    English told <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> that he was
                    going over to <placeName ref="#America">America</placeName> next month and would
                    take in the medallion and charge himself with all responsibility and trouble.
                    So, on the strength of this, we bought several things - chairs, stuffs etc. - so
                    that they might all go over together. Then we prowled into some other shops, and
                    bought a little exquisitely painted portrait, probably French. In the afternoon
                    I and <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> went for <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie</persName>, and the girls and we went to
                        <persName ref="#Ryerson_Mrs">Mrs. Ryerson</persName>'s pretty appartment to
                    a reception given me, and met some pleasant people. Saw and talked a long time
                    with <persName ref="#Fiske_Mr">Prof. Fiske</persName>, who asked us to tea
                    tomorrow. <persName ref="#Berenson_Bernard">Berenson</persName> to dinner.</p>
            </div>
            <div xml:id="EBA18980420" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, April 20.</title></p>
                <p><persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I went to the <placeName
                        ref="#Pitti_Palace">Pitti</placeName> this morning and met <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Anderson"
                        >Anderson</persName> and <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName>
                    there - went to the flower market for flowers and bought some trinkets at a shop
                    - in the afternoon we drove in the rain out to <persName ref="#Fiske_Prof">Prof.
                        Fiskes</persName>, had tea, ices and strawberries!! (at 5 o’clock in the
                    afternoon) went all over his beautiful old Italian villa, which is entirely
                    furnished in brutal American and French fashion - looked <pb n="048"/> longingly
                    at his Italian garden from each window, and marvelled at the opportunities going
                    to waste everywhere, - then drove to <persName ref="#Berenson_Bernard"
                        >Berensons</persName>, had tea again and watched the clouds rolling away,
                    and the sun deciding to show himself for a few moments, and listened to the
                    thrushes and blackbirds, saw 4 charming panels of Saints by Taddeo di Bartoli
                    which <persName ref="#Berenson_Bernard">Berenson</persName> had just received
                    from <placeName ref="#Siena">Siena</placeName>, and which <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> bought at once, and drove home
                    late enough for dinner with <persName ref="#Berenson_Bernard"
                        >Berenson</persName> and <persName ref="#Andersen">Andersen</persName> to
                    dinner.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980421" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, April 21.</title></p>
                <p>We are ready to start tomorrow for <placeName ref="#Venice">Venice</placeName> -
                        <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> goes with us fortunately
                    and <persName ref="#Andersen">Andersen</persName>. Shopping, sightseeing,
                    dodging the rain all day. <persName ref="#Buttles_Lizzie">Lizzie</persName> and
                    the girls dined and have just gone.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980422" type="Entry">
                <p><title><name type="hotel" ref="#Grand_Hotel">Grand Hotel</name>, <placeName
                            ref="#Venice">Venice</placeName>, April 22.</title></p>
                <p>A not fatiguing journey yesterday - quitting <placeName ref="#Florence"
                        >Florence</placeName> at 11:30 - arriving at 6 - rather cold - this morning
                    was cold with high winds, went to the <orgName ref="#Academia"
                        >Academia</orgName>. What treasures of Venetian art! and how deadly chill
                    the galleries! <persName ref="#Andersen">Andersen</persName> has a violent cold
                    and is wretched. <persName ref="#Castello_Mrs">Mrs. Costello</persName> is here
                    with her brother <persName ref="#Pearsall-Smith_Mr">Mr.
                        Pearsall-Smith</persName> - <persName ref="#Fielding_Percy">Percy
                        Fielding</persName> and <persName ref="#Duff_Gordon_Miss">Miss
                        Duff-Gordon</persName>. We met them all at the <orgName ref="#Academia"
                        >Academia</orgName> this morning. They are keen searchers after antiquities.
                        <persName ref="#Duff_Gordon_Miss">Miss Duff-Gordon</persName> would be
                    beautiful did she not look so delicate - she is a grandchild of <persName
                        ref="#Duff_Gordon_Lady">Lady Duff-Gordon</persName>. <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie"
                        >Bessie</persName> and <persName ref="#Andersen">Andersen</persName> walked
                    home, while I and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> went in
                    our gondola beyond the <placeName ref="#Rialto">Rialto</placeName> some distance
                    to see <pb n="049"/> the beautiful Cadoro, and to enjoy the warmth of the sun,
                    which was actually shining for a time. In the afternoon we all went along the
                    Grand Canal again to visit some antiquity shops - as I am on the lookout for two
                    or three marbles for the garden. <persName ref="#Castello_Mrs">Mrs.
                        Costello</persName> came to tea. It seems there is a very choice and modest
                    little shop in <placeName ref="#London">London</placeName> known as <orgName
                        ref="#Toplady’s">Toplady’s</orgName> where very good choses anciennes are
                    found. The firm consists of <persName ref="#Hohenloke_Prince">Prince
                        Hohenloke</persName>, <persName ref="#Fielding_Percy">Percy
                        Fielding</persName> and <persName ref="Pearsall-Smith_Mr">Pearsall
                        Smith</persName>, and a lady from <placeName ref="#Baltimore"
                        >Baltimore</placeName>, Maryland, a relative of <orgName ref="#Smiths">the
                        Smiths</orgName> (<persName ref="#Costello_Mrs">Mrs. Costello</persName> was
                    a <orgName ref="#Logan-Smith">Logan-Smith</orgName>) presides and earns her
                    living thus. <persName ref="#Hohenloke_Prince">Prince Hohenloke</persName> lives
                    here in a charming little house with a beautiful lady supposed to be his wife,
                    and as <persName ref="#Pearsall-Smith_Mr">Mr. Pearsall-Smith</persName> lives
                    part of the year in <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName> with his
                    sister, they are in the way of picking up many choice things. And they are
                    immensely amusing over it - <persName ref="#Pearsall-Smith_Mr">Mr.
                        Pearsall-Smith</persName> suggests that the firm should be called,
                    “Hohenloke, Hapsburg, Smith” (the <orgName ref="#Fieldings">Fieldings</orgName>
                    being descendants of the <orgName ref="#Hapsburgs">Hapsburgs</orgName>). It
                    seems that there is a combination of Hotels and several large dealers in
                    antiquities known as the ___________, and they attempt to crowd out smaller
                    dealers, and those who will not enter this combination. The porters of the
                    hotels, the gondoliers, the guides all direct you to those places sanctioned by
                    this ________ and divert you from the others. <persName ref="#Layard_Lady">Lady
                        Layard</persName> who lives here gave <persName ref="#Pearsall-Smith_Mr">Mr.
                        P. Smith</persName> a list of the pure dealers which he gave to me and the
                    _________ are furious at <persName ref="#Layard_Lady">Lady Layard</persName>,
                    because she took the <persName ref="#Empress_Frederick">Empress
                        Frederick</persName>, and the <persName ref="#Princess_of_Wales">Princess of
                        Wales</persName>, who have lately been here to these independent dealers,
                    where they made large purchases - and one of these men showed me with great
                    pride their signatures in his book.<pb n="050"/></p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980424" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, April 24.</title></p>
                <p>Again to the <orgName ref="#Academia">Academia</orgName> this morning - met
                        <persName ref="#Edgerton_Winthrop_Mr">Mr. Egerton Winthrop</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Lorehan_Mr_Mrs">Mr. and Mrs. Lorehan</persName> there - they
                    are just over from home, coming in the St. Louis. This afternoon though there
                    was little sunlight, <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I
                    went to the <placeName ref="#Grand_Church_of_S_Giovanni_e_S_Paolo">Grand Church
                        of S. Giovanni e S. Paolo</placeName>. Found it raining when we came out,
                    -at 4:30, <persName ref="#Castello_Mrs">the Costello</persName> party came here
                    and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and I went with them to
                        <orgName ref="#Barozzis">Barozzi’s</orgName> where I saw some really
                    beautiful old Italian things. A grand old painted Casone of the 14 century and
                    some beautiful stuffs. We are just home this evening from a charming dinner
                    given by <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> at a fine
                    restaurant near us, to the <persName ref="#Castello_Mrs">Costello</persName>
                    people. We walked there and found a fine room up stairs with beautifully
                    decorated table, and a delicious dinner and a very merry one, it was pleasant
                    walking home in a half moonlight and it seemed like the stage of a theatre.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980425" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, April 25.</title></p>
                <p>Went to the <orgName ref="#Correr Museo">Correr Museo</orgName> this morning. A
                    few gleams of sunshine. With <persName ref="#Pearsall-Smith_Mr">Mr. P.
                        Smith</persName> to see some marbles in the afternoon. After dinner they all
                    came in to see us - and showed us their treasure trove of little things - among
                    them an exquisite statuette in ivory of Madonna and Child. <persName
                        ref="#Castello_Mrs">Mrs. Costello</persName> has bought a very beautiful
                    bronze statuette, about 18 inches high - strong, of fine workmanship - a
                    Venetian knight with staff - by one called Razzi or RIzzi, who made the fine
                    bronze bust in the Correr, with the hair arranged in almost bonnet form,
                    shielding the face. She paid £500 for it - and it is for <pb n="051"/>
                    <persName ref="#Berenson_Bernard">Berenson</persName>. She offered it to
                        <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> for £600. it is a
                    beautiful and valuable thing. <persName ref="#Andersen">Andersen</persName> very
                    wretched this evening. He goes back with <persName ref="#Castello_Mrs">Mrs.
                        Costello</persName> tomorrow as far as <placeName ref="#FLorence"
                        >Florence</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980426" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, April 26.</title></p>
                <p>A day of disappointment and pouring rain - <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette"
                        >Nettie</persName>, <persName ref="Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> and I,
                    equipped with overshoes, cloaks, wrap and umbrellas went to the <orgName
                        ref="#Frari">Frari</orgName> this morning - came home quite drenched. In the
                    afternoon it clearing a little, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> and I started for <orgName ref="#Barozzis"
                        >Barozzi’s</orgName> - but it began to pour and has come in torrents ever
                    since - much thunder and lightning this evening. <persName ref="#Andersen"
                        >Andersen</persName> left at noon - somewhat better.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980427" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, April 27.</title></p>
                <p>Weather somewhat better - at home this morning - and in the afternoon we looked
                    for marbles. Found some very charming ones at <orgName ref="#Dorigos"
                        >Dorigo’s</orgName> - a pair of Roman vases, 4 little lions - a splendid
                    griffin, and a lion’s mask for the base of the big jar bought at <orgName
                        ref="#Barozzis">Barozzi’s</orgName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980428" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, April 28.</title></p>
                <p>Weather beautiful - a bright sun - and <placeName ref="#Venice"
                        >Venice</placeName> transformed - went to churches - and to return the
                        <orgName ref="#Bensons">Benson’s</orgName>call. Found them in an old palace,
                    in a splendid appartment with a hall running straight through the building -
                    said to be the 2d finest hall in <placeName ref="#Venice">Venice</placeName>,
                    with fine rooms opening on either side. The palace fronts the Canal - but has
                    gardens on both sides, and such a big garden behind that it is like a farm. Here
                        <pb n="032"/>
                    <persName ref="#Benson_Mrs">Mrs. Benson</persName> spends her days - digging,
                    planting, caring for her precious flowers. <persName ref="#Benson_Mr">Mr.
                        Benson</persName> who is a very mediocre artist, has very good taste and
                    having lived 15 years in this palace, has collected many beautiful and rare
                    things - making a charming tout-ensemble. It is a strange history as told us by
                        <persName ref="#Castello_Mrs">Mrs. Costello</persName>. <persName
                        ref="#Benson_Mrs">Mrs. Benson</persName>, of French extraction was the only
                    child of very strict and religious parents from whose rigidity when she came of
                    age she much revolted. She married, had one son, and one daughter. Then met
                        <persName ref="#Benson_Mr">Mr. Benson</persName> who was a Baptist clergyman
                    of artistic proclivities. They became violently attached and eloped, - the son
                    remained with the father, the daughter went with the mother. After some time the
                    original husband died, and <orgName ref="Bensons">Mr. and Mrs. Benson</orgName>
                    married. They are now in reduced circumstances - the daughter chiefly supporting
                    them. She is a writer of some reputation made her first success with “Kismet” a
                    story of the Nile. <persName ref="Benson_Mrs">Mrs. Benson</persName> is said to
                    have been very beautiful - one would not now think it - she is infirm and
                    crippled from rheumatism, and was run over by a carriage sometime since, and
                    almost killed - one eye being entirely destroyed. It was piteous to see these
                    two old people (for the daughter we did not see) devotedly attached to each
                    other, amongst their beautiful things, so shut away from the world, and striving
                    to keep their heads above water. <persName ref="#Castello_Mrs">Mrs.
                        Costello</persName> had told <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> that <persName ref="#Benson_Mr">Benson</persName> would
                    occasionally sell some of his possessions, when he was pressed for the
                    necessities of life - and that some of his friends would occasionally buy one of
                    his <pb n="053"/> pictures, only for the sake of putting a little money in his
                    pocket. So after the poor man had tried to sell us one of his pictures, and we
                    had given all the faint praise and evasive comments we could, he ended by
                    suggesting to <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> that if he
                    really admired so much a certain persian bowl in copper, he could part with it
                    etc. etc. so <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> gladly gave him
                    500 francs for it, and we brought the beautiful thing away with us. <persName
                        ref="#Fielding_Mr">Mr. Fielding</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Pearsall-Smith_Mr">Mr. Pearsall-Smith</persName> came in this evening
                    to say goodbye - as they start at midnight for <placeName ref="#London"
                        >London</placeName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980429" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, April 29.</title></p>
                <p>Another beautiful day. We went to the church of the S. Francesco della Vigna to
                    see a beautiful Madonna by <persName ref="#Negro_Ponte">Negro Ponte</persName> a
                    Paduan painter - and a Madonna, child and angels by <persName ref="#Bellini"
                        >Bellini</persName> - the light so bad it could not well be seen. Then to
                    the church of S. Maria Mater Domini and saw the beautiful Catena of St.
                    Catherine and Angels, - exquisite in colour and feeling. Much damaged by the
                    dampness of the cold damp little church. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> and I went acrows to the Guidena to the Redentore
                    Church and had a long look at the lovely Madonna of Alvise Vivarini. The church
                    inexpressibly cold and hideous - and the little Sacristy was the only cheerful
                    place, with its paintings, among which was a so-called Bellini, and a sweet
                    Bissolo. Then we met <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> at S. Marco’s and
                    afterwards had tea in the Piazza, and did some shopping - we are ready to start
                    for <placeName ref="#Milan">Milan</placeName> tomorrow. <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette"
                        >Nettie</persName> with <persName ref="#Benson_Mr">Mr. Benson</persName>
                    make an early start for <placeName ref="#Padua">Padua</placeName> - <persName
                        ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> and I with <persName ref="#Amelie"
                        >Amèlie</persName> and <persName ref="#Daniel_Jones">Jones</persName> do not
                    go until 2 o’clock P.M. and they will join us as we pass through. <pb n="054"
                    /></p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980430" type="Entry">
                <p><title><placeName ref="#Milan">Milan</placeName>. April 20. Sunday.</title></p>
                <p>Had a very charming and not tiresome ride from <placeName ref="Venice"
                        >Venice</placeName>. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> and
                        <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> departed early for Padua
                    - after breakfast, <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> and I went
                    out to the Piazza San Marno and walked about it, and then went into the church
                    and wandered about and sat looking at its marvelous colour and ornamentation.
                    Had an early lunch, picked up <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName>
                    at Padua - they report the gallery (private) they went to see, dismally
                    uninteresting - the so called Antonello da Messina a fraud, and the chatelaine
                    an ogre. We are in our old delightful quarters at this best of all hotels - the
                        <name type="hotel" ref="#Cavour">“Cavour”</name> writing letters all the
                    evening. We discovered two letters in the travellers box for <persName
                        ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName> - so I wrote a note to be left
                    for him.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980501" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, May 1st.</title></p>
                <p>A day of picture seeing - the morning at the Brera - beautiful weather -
                        <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>, and I walked in the
                    Park, after leaving the Cathedral this afternoon, until 7 o’clock. Quite
                    delicious - the air so full of spring scents.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980503" type="Entry">
                <p><title><name type="hotel" ref="#Hotel_National">Hotel National</name>. <placeName
                            ref="#Lake_Lucerne">Lake Lucerne</placeName>. Wednesday, May
                    3.</title></p>
                <p>We left <placeName ref="Milan">Milan</placeName> yesterday at 2 P.M. having spent
                    most of the morning at the <orgName ref="#Poldi_Pezzoli"
                    >Poldi-Pezzoli</orgName>. It is much improved - many changes have been made -
                    and a new catalogue is under way. The handsome rooms are full of lovely things -
                    and the beautiful so called Pui dei Fronnschi <pb n="055"/> lady still holds her
                    wondrous profile to the admiration of all the world. We had a fine day for the
                    journey over the mountains, though we found bad weather on this side. All day
                    long the Mts. have been, at least the snow peaks, hidden by clouds. I have been
                    in the house nursing a cold. <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName>
                    and <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> took a steamer this
                    afternoon to <placeName ref="#Kussnach">Kussnach</placeName>, but said they
                    found it cold and gloomy. I have just been standing at the big window in our
                    charming salon, looking out upon the lake, on whose shores we are. What an
                    entourage is this of <placeName ref="#Lucerne">Lucerne</placeName>! The steamers
                    leaving now and then their widening ripple across the blue water - and the green
                    hills, so dark on this sombre day, with their bright patches of tender young
                    foliage - and the myriads of blossoming trees which stand about everywhere. A
                    yellow billed black bird has been sitting at intervals all this afternoon on a
                    slender tree outside my window - and making such delicious, penetrating music!
                    We start at 7 A.M. tomorrow for <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName> -
                    which means an early breakfast, and a still earlier getting up!</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980505" type="Entry">
                <p><title><placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName>. <name type="hotel"
                            ref="#Hotel_de_Londres">Hotel de Londres</name>. Friday -5th
                        May.</title></p>
                <p>It seems a long time since we left <placeName ref="#Lucerne">Lucerne</placeName>
                    yesterday morning in the rain and cold. We breakfasted at 6 o’clock. Met
                        <orgName ref="#Bronsons">Mrs. and Miss Bronson</orgName> at the station,
                    they having arrived the night before from <placeName ref="#Rome"
                        >Rome</placeName>. They had the compartment next to us in the car. We made a
                    very comfortable journey to <placeName ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName> though for
                    two or three hours of the morning we were quite frozen, it was so cold - and
                    though the sun came out <pb n="036"/> later the air remained cold and
                    penetrating. <persName ref="#Jones_Daniel">Jones</persName> was left at
                        <placeName ref="#Chaumont">Chaumont</placeName> with several others - and
                    they did not arrive until 10 P.M. We began our usual struggle for clothes this
                    morning. <persName ref="#Parsons_Lellie">Mrs. Parsons</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Cowdry_Miss">Miss Cowdry</persName> here this afternoon, they go to
                        <placeName ref="#London">London</placeName> tomorrow. <persName
                        ref="#Bronson_Mrs">Mrs. Bronson</persName> and her daughter have rooms next
                    to us in this hotel - and we find ourselves so comfortable that we do not regret
                    the <name type="hotel" ref="#Hotel_Bristol">Hotel Bristol</name>, where our
                    rooms were engaged for yesterday, but owing to a sudden illness, the family who
                    were occupying them, and who intended going the day before, were not able to
                    quit the appartment.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980515" type="Entry">
                <p><title><placeName ref="#London">London</placeName>, May 15. <name type="hotel"
                            ref="#Hotel_Bristol">Hotel Bristol</name>.</title></p>
                <p>Nothing of interest to chronicle of our ten days spent at <placeName ref="#Paris"
                        >Paris</placeName>. The inevitable dress maker - rain - and cold weather -
                    saw much of <persName ref="#Bronson_Mrs">the Bronsons</persName>. <persName
                        ref="#Austins_the">The Austins</persName> dined with us one evening.
                        <persName ref="#Parsons_Lellie">Mrs. Parsons</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Virginia">Virginia</persName>, and <persName ref="#Cowdry_Miss">Miss
                        Cowdry</persName> came to tea. <persName ref="#Hagerman_Burt">Burt
                        Hagerman</persName> appeared at our hotel three days before we left, and was
                    with us most of the time. A nice, clean, handsome interesting fellow. He had
                    much to tell us about his life at <placeName ref="#St_Petersbourg">St.
                        Petersbourg</placeName> - where he is 2d Secretary in the U.S. Legation.
                    Thursday being Ascension day we all went out to <placeName ref="#St_Germain">St.
                        Germain</placeName> to spend the day. We had a long drive about the Park -
                    but were driven back at last by the rain - found the Hotel crowded by those
                    driven indoors by the rain - got some tea - and at last reached <placeName
                        ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName>, the rain pouring in torrents. Crossed on
                    Sunday - yesterday - very wet - heavy rain - but the Channel smooth. Came to our
                    charming old quarters at this hotel.</p>
            </div>
            <pb n="057"/>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980517" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, May 17.</title></p>
                <p>Have been in the house for two days with a bad throat - weather bad and cold -
                    took my cold in the <orgName ref="#National_Gallery">National Gallery</orgName>
                    the day after we arrived - it was frigid there. <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> also took a cold coming over, and was in for 2 days -
                    but is now out - <persName ref="#Fielding_Mr">Fielding</persName> has twice
                    dined with us, and we dine with him tomorrow. Yesterday <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> took him to the Lamorean Concert,
                    and they were invited afterwards to <persName ref="#de_Trafford_Lady_Agnes">Lady
                        Agnes de Trafford</persName>'s to a drawing room tea, <persName
                        ref="#de_Trafford_Lady_Agnes">Lady Agnes</persName> having that day
                    introduced a young cousin - <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName>
                    thought the long trains very fascinating - <persName ref="#Farrar_Gaspard"
                        >Gaspard Farrer</persName> has been in twice, and so has <persName
                        ref="#Rathbone_Mr">Mr. Rathbone</persName>, where <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> is dining tonight. We are all
                    invited down to <placeName ref="#Sandhurst">Sandhurst</placeName>, <persName
                        ref="#Farrar_William_Sir">Sir William Farrer</persName>'s country place, to
                    spend Whitsuntide - but only <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>
                    will go - as we had engaged rooms and arranged to go down to <placeName
                        ref="#Liphook">Liphook</placeName> to spend Sunday and Monday. The girls and
                    I will go there, for, with my cold I am not fit for a visitor. <orgName
                        ref="#Newberrys">Mr. and Mrs. Percy Newberry</orgName> lunched with us today
                    - and afterwards <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName> came in,
                    looking very well indeed.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980520" type="Entry">
                <p><title><placeName ref="#Liphook">Liphook</placeName>. Hampshire. <name
                            type="hotel" ref="#Royal_Anchor_Hotel">Royal Anchor Hotel</name>. May
                        20.</title></p>
                <p>Could not go out of the house until yesterday afternoon - Thursday I spent in
                    bed. Came down here at 11:30 - Heavy showers alternating with bursts of sunshine
                    all morning. But since lunch there has been nothing to do but to stay in our
                    little sitting room, and watch the rain pouring against the window panes. We all
                    had a <pb n="058"/> most cordial invitation to go down to <persName
                        ref="#Farrar_William_Sir">Sir William Farrer</persName>s place, <placeName ref="#Sandhurst">Sandhurst</placeName>,
                    and spend today, Sunday and Monday - and at any other time I would have been
                    enchanted, but with my bad throat, I cannot talk - and quiet is necessary -
                    being “en evidence” all the time, evening dress, and much talk, would have been
                    impossible for me. So <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName>
                    accepted the invitation, and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette"
                    >Nettie</persName>, <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> and I,
                    with <persName ref="#Amelie">Amelie</persName> came down here. A comfortable
                    historic Inn - one of the posting inns of the past. <persName ref="#Pepys_Samuel">Pepys</persName> mentions in his diary,
                    having “lain” here for the night. A storey has been added to it, and our rooms
                    were chosen there by <persName ref="#Rathbone_Mr">Mr. Rathbone</persName>, who
                    advised us coming here. The rooms are clean and comfortable and have not been
                    “lain” in, as often as those in the older part of the house. A lovely country,
                    famous for its views, and fine, dry air, - but we could see nothing as yet -
                    except dissolving views of the garden, and the fine trees about the house.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980521" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Whit. Sunday, May 21.</title></p>
                <p>A gray and lowering morning dawned - but we had the courage to start at 10:30 for
                    a drive. We had a very comfortable landau, two good horses - a stout and careful
                    coachman - and we soon began to make acquaintance with this beautiful country -
                    at first through characteristic English lanes - splendid hedges of hawthorn and
                    holly - with towering oaks, beeches and larches - then out upon the moors,
                    covered with gorse in full bloom - with the dark pines beyond, and the somber,
                    stormy sky, making such ravishing effects of light, shade and colour - and such
                    delicious air! it was a rapture to breathe. We went through <placeName ref="#Woolmer_Forest">Woolmer <pb n="059"
                    /> Forest</placeName>, and home again across the moor, in time for lunch at 1:30. Then a
                    rest until 3 o’clock - and out again for <placeName ref="#Selborne">Selborne</placeName> - to see the old home of
                        <persName ref="#White_Gilbert">Gilbert White</persName> - again the lovely
                    lanes - the moor - up hill and down dales - exclaiming at the splendid oaks and
                    beeches - the great stretches of valley, the picturesque cottages - the handsome
                    estates, until in an hour and a half we entered the little village of <placeName ref="#Selborne">Selborne</placeName>,
                    the quaintest and most delightful thing I ever saw. The strange timbered houses,
                    with a peculiar use of different coloured bricks, and the thatched roofs, made
                    me long for some sunlight to photograph them. We stopped at a little Inn to rest
                    the horses and had a very good cup of tea, and then walked down the street to
                    see the house of <persName ref="#White_Gilbert">Gilbert White</persName>, which
                    I thought I knew from the prints of it - all of which it seems were taken from
                    the garden side which we could not see - its back is almost upon the street.
                    Then we walked a few steps to the old church, and into its churchyard, with
                    lovely views across the valley - a glorious chestnut - and a wonderful old yew -
                    some of the grave stones so eaten with age and lichens, that no trace of name or
                    inscription remained. “The rude forefathers of the hamlet” or whoever they were,
                    had indeed passed into oblivion. Coming home, the rain poured in torrents - and
                    we had to have the carriage closed. Tonight, the whole world is shrowded in a
                    heavy Scotch mist. I have a pleasant little room in a corner of the house, with
                    two windows, and a tiny grate in which I have a little fire every night. It
                    looks out on the little irregular square before the hotel, made by the crossing
                    of two streets, and in this square stands the biggest and finest white <pb
                        n="060"/> horse chestnut I have ever seen, now laden with bloom, and looking
                    like some great chandelier, holding up its lights to heaven.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980522" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Monday, May 22.</title></p>
                <p>We have had another day of driving in this delicious neighborhood, from whose
                    height we saw the world all around us, or would have done so, had not a blinding
                    rain swept through the valley, - but it was soon over and we drove home with the
                    carriage open. Then this afternoon we drove four miles over to <placeName
                        ref="#Hashmere">Hashmere</placeName>, to see <persName
                        ref="#Pearsall-Smith_Mr">Mr. Pearsall-Smith</persName> and have tea with
                    him. We went through the beautiful estate of <persName ref="#Hawkshaw_Lord">Lord
                        Hawkshaw</persName> - the most magnificent drive I ever had - on the way I
                    stopped and photographed a wonderful shire horse - the biggest thing in the way
                    of a horse I have ever seen. We found <persName ref="#Pearsall-Smith_Mr">Mr.
                        P.-S</persName>. in a charming little estate - in an old manor house, which
                    he has made delightful and very much occupied with his pretty garden. Just after
                    we got home, the clouds began to at last roll away, the sun came out, and the
                    moon is now shining superbly. Never have I heard such a riotous chant of birds,
                    as we hear here - nightingales - blackbirds, thrushes and larks - we go back to
                        <placeName ref="#London">London</placeName> tomorrow.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980523" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Tuesday, May 23.</title></p>
                <p>The sun did not appear before we left <placeName ref="Liphook"
                        >Liphook</placeName> at 11:05 this morning. I tried a few photographs but I
                    have little hope they will amount to anything. We reached the hotel in time for
                    lunch - and found <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> already
                    returned - he gave us very glowing accounts of his <pb n="061"/> visit to
                    <placeName ref="#Sandhurst">Sandhurst</placeName> - and said <persName ref="#Farrar_William_Sir">Sir William</persName>
                    surpassed himself in charm and interest - and in spite of his age and
                    infirmities went about everywhere. <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette"
                        >Nettie</persName> and <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName>
                    went to <placeName ref="#Westminster Abbey">Westminster Abbey</placeName> this afternoon while <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> and I went to leave cards at various places. <persName
                        ref="#Farrar_Gaspard">Gaspard Farrer</persName> came to dine with us.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980524" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Wednesday, May 24.</title></p>
                <p>A busy morning with <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> in some
                    shops - and with <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> this
                    afternoon driving and shopping.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980525" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, May 25.</title></p>
                <p>Met <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName> this morning at the
                    Paddington station at 9:40 and went to <placeName ref="#Oxford"
                        >Oxford</placeName> - almost a wintry morning - and <persName
                        ref="#Sayce_Archibald">mr. Sayce</persName> with a violent cold, poor man.
                    We drove at once to <orgName ref="#Queen’s_College">Queen’s College</orgName>, to his rooms, where there was a bright fire
                    burning, and a very pleasant young woman, a neice of <persName ref="#Tennyson">Tennyson</persName>’s, waiting to
                    receive us, and help <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName> out
                    with his hospitalities. We tried to induce <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr.
                        Sayce</persName> to stay by his fireside, and let us do our sightseeing, but
                    our persuasions were all in vain - and he would at least show us his own college
                    - and promenaded through the windy quads - and through the chill corridors and
                    staircases. Queen’s is not an interesting college. Then we went to what was
                    called the upper common room for our lunch, which was indeed charming - and a
                    most elaborate lunch beautifully served - by three grave servitors. The room had
                    several interesting historical portraits and a beautiful outlook on quads,
                    gardens and college towers. A <persName ref="#Oman_Prof">Prof. <pb n="062"/>
                        Oman</persName> and his wife, celebrated already as an historical writer
                        <persName ref="#Weld_Prof">(Prof.) Miss Weld</persName>, and <persName
                        ref="#Scott_Miss">Miss Scott</persName>, daughter of <persName
                        ref="#Scott_John_Sir">Sir John Scott</persName>, whom we had known in
                        <placeName ref="Egypt">Egypt</placeName>, lunched with us. We sat a long
                    time at lunch, so that we had only a little more than an hour before the train
                    left. Then we walked to All Lords, saw its lovely garden, and chapel - then to
                    <orgName ref="#Jesus_College">Jesus College</orgName> where <persName ref="#Scott_Miss">Miss Scott</persName> was
                    staying with the Principal - <persName ref="#Rhys_Prof">Prof. Rhys</persName>.
                    She took us to see the old drawing room in his residence - a lovely old panelled
                    room of the time of <persName ref="#Charles_I">Charles I</persName> - with a fine ceiling. Then we all hurried back to
                    town, full of thanks to <persName ref="#Sayce_Archibald">Mr. Sayce</persName>
                    for our pleasant day. But they are exhausting, these kinds of days! <persName
                        ref="#Fielding_Mr">Fielding</persName> came to dine, and <persName
                        ref="#Rathbone_Mr">Mr. Rathbone</persName> came in for tea. <persName
                        ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> off to the theater with <persName
                        ref="#Zug_Mr">Mr. Zug</persName>.</p>
            </div>
            <div xml:id="EBA18980526" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Friday, May 26.</title></p>
                <p>This our last day has been crowded - visits - driving - shopping - <persName
                        ref="#Pearsall-Smith_Mr">Mr. Pearsall-Smith</persName> came to lunch - and
                    we had such a pleasant time. Then he, <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore"
                        >Theodore</persName> and <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette">Nettie</persName>
                    went to look at a picture, and to visit <orgName ref="#Topladys">“Toplady’s”</orgName>, where <persName
                        ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> bought a charming little Batterseà
                    enamel box, in an old shagreen case, and brought it home to me. <persName
                        ref="#Newberry_Mr">Mr. Percy Newberry</persName> came in, after <persName
                        ref="#Whaling_Bessie">Bessie</persName> and I got home from our drive,
                    bringing me a box of flowers from an Egyptian tomb at <placeName ref="#Hawara">Hawara</placeName>, dating some 2000
                    years B.C. They are beautifully packed in a tin box -which I shall carry in my
                    hands - trusting it to no one. <persName ref="#Rathbone_Mr">Mr.
                        Rathbone</persName> and <persName ref="#Fielding_Mr">Fielding</persName>
                    came to dine, a pleasant dinner - but it was late when they left, and it is long
                    past 12 o’clock - all my little arrangements are <pb n="063"/> made, and we must
                    be off early tomorrow for <placeName ref="#Southampton">Southampton</placeName>.
                    How I hate the thought of another voyage! <persName ref="#de_Trafford_Lady_Agnes">Lady Agnes
                        de Trafford</persName> paid us a long visit - and <persName
                        ref="#Farrar_Gaspard">Gaspar Farrer</persName>.</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980527" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Saturday, May 27. S.S. St. Paul.</title></p>
                <p>We said a reluctant goodbye to <persName ref="#Buttles_Jeanette"
                        >Nettie</persName> this morning, who was to leave an hour after we did. She
                    goes directly to <placeName ref="#Florence">Florence</placeName>. <persName
                        ref="#Fielding_Mr">Fielding</persName> came to the station to say goodbye,
                    he promises to come over this summer. We reached <placeName ref="#Southampton"
                        >Southampton</placeName> in due time, and by one o’clock were off. <placeName ref="#Cherbourg">Cherbourg</placeName>
                    at 5 o’clock - where we took on board several passengers from the <placeName
                        ref="#Paris">Paris</placeName>. We now have a goodly representation of her
                    passengers - and one hears from all sides accounts of that disaster. We have a
                    charming suite of deck rooms - and I have a private bathroom opening from my
                    room!</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980601" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Thursday, June 1st.</title></p>
                <p>The fog whistle has been going since early last evening - a melancholy music it
                    is - the fog very thick - last night there was ice near us, and we stopped twice
                    for a few moments. Half speed almost the whole time since the fog began, and
                    that means a late arrival on Saturday, instead of an early one. I have spent all
                    my time in my pretty big room - and two days I stayed in bed, getting a good
                    rest. There has been no incentive to get up and go out as there has been cloudy,
                    damp, rainy weather until the fog came - I have read <persName ref="#Jekyls_Miss">Miss <pb n="064"/> Jekyls</persName>’s
                    delightful “Wood and Garden”, a fascinating sea narrative, “The Cruiser of the
                    Cachalot for Sperm Whales”. “Pages from a Private Diary” and <persName ref="#Baring-Gould">Baring-Gould</persName>’s
                    rather stuffed and padded “Old English Home”. I am now rereading <persName ref="#Trollope">Trollope</persName>’s
                    admirable “Phineas Redeux”. But how long the hours are, and how blessed is the
                    thought of home growing nearer and nearer!</p>
            </div>

            <div xml:id="EBA18980604" type="Entry">
                <p><title>Sunday, June 4th. Holland House. <placeName ref="#New_York">New York</placeName>.</title></p>
                <p>We reached our dock yesterday at one o’clock. Very good time considering the fogs
                    we encountered during the last two days and nights. <persName ref="#Doty_Dr">Dr.
                        Doty</persName> came on board to see us at Quarantine. We found <persName
                        ref="#Whaling_John">John</persName> and <persName ref="#Whaling_Ettie">Ettie
                        Whaling</persName> waiting on the wharf - and were not detained long in the
                    Custom House. Warm weather. <persName ref="#Medary_Sam">Sam Medary</persName>
                    and <persName ref="#Louise">Louise</persName> came to see me in the evening -
                    and <persName ref="#Rogers_Andrews">Andrews Rogers</persName> - very warm today.
                        <persName ref="#Davis_Theodore">Theodore</persName> in the house with a very
                    hoarse cold - and thoroughly tired out. Just as we reached the <orgName ref="#Holland_House">Holland House</orgName>
                    yesterday, <persName ref="#Jeannie">Jeannie</persName> and <persName
                        ref="#Convere_Mr">Mr. Convere</persName> turned up - and we had a long visit
                    from them. <persName ref="#Daniel_Jones">Jones</persName> went to <placeName
                        ref="#Newport">Newport</placeName> on the evening boat yesterday - and the
                    dogs must be happy. <persName ref="#Whaling_Ettie">Ettie</persName>, <persName
                        ref="#Daniel_Jones">John</persName> and <persName ref="#Whaling_Bessie"
                        >Bessie</persName> left at one o’clock for the West - the poor things will
                    suffer from the heat. We hope to get off on tomorrow nights boat.</p>
            </div>

        </body>
    </text>
</TEI>