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<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
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<title>We Ate Taiwan: 98年 3月 12日 – 101</title>
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<h1><a href="index.html">We Ate Taiwan</a></h1>
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<h1 class="tyfont-size-h3">98年 3月 12日 – 101</h1>
<figure class="tymedia">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/taipei101_up.jpg" alt="Looking up at the lights of Taipei 101" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">Looking up at the lights of Taipei 101.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Today starts with an early breakfast. The hotel continues to impress, setting up what appears to be typical buffet. However, everything is of excellent quality and there are a few pleasant surprises. As usual, it is difficult to have extended meal conversation with Monica’s parents because of the language barrier. As has become my habit here, I fill some of the time by looking up Chinese characters using the dictionary on my iPhone. I am keeping a list of those characters I have looked up to chart my progress and for review.</p>
<p>Our plan is to enjoy a bit of hiking before we check out of the hotel. Monica’s parents have selected the Baiyang Trail - a 2.1km hike that will allow us to see two interesting geological features: the Baiyang waterfall and the Water Curtain Cave.</p>
<figure class="tymedia">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/baiyangtrail.jpg" alt="The Baiyang trail map" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">Map showing the Baiyang trail.</figcaption>
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<p>The path itself is well established and not difficult. It follows along two connecting rivers, through some very dark tunnels (a flashlight is recommended; Monica’s father is prepared), to the waterfall. As observed during the previous day’s tour of the gorge, warnings of potential rockfalls are everywhere – even inside the dark tunnels, which is disturbing – and hikers are encouraged to move along and not linger. Amusingly, we are also warned not to fall of the cliff and down into the river below the trail.</p>
<figure class="tymedia float-right">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/dontfallin.jpg" alt="A photo of a warning sign" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">Don’t fall in.</figcaption>
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<p>During the hike we see even more evidence of rockfalls. In one area of the trail, the path is littered with thin shards of rock; the cliffs above us seems to have slowly flaked away like buttery pastry. In another spot, a large chunk of rock has partially cracked and pulled away from an overhang. We wonder what’s keeping it attached.</p>
<p>The morning is a great one: clear and sunny. I hike in light pants and a t-shirt. The only insects moving about are butterflies. Our hike takes us through more beautiful and difficult to capture scenery. The water passing below us alternates between a lovely aqua and silt-laden beige. We basically have the trail to ourselves. On the hike out, we pass only one other person.</p>
<p>The observation platform for Baiyang waterfall is accessed by a short rope-and-cable suspension bridge. The falls themselves have a few distinct sections, finally merging with the main river flow. The approach to the falls is a long tunnel. The noise from the falls echoes in the tunnel at an alarming volume considering all the warnings about falling rock. The observation is the busiest place on the trail which is to say there are maybe 10 people there admiring the view, taking photos, or painting.</p>
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<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/falls.jpg" alt="Photo of a bridge and observation platform" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">The bridge and observation platform at the waterfall.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>After pausing for a while to look about, we proceed to the end of the trail and the Water Curtain Cave. The best way to describe this is a small creek that emerges from a tunnel in the side of a mountain. Water seeping through the rock creates a small waterfall inside the tunnel, which is then channeled out. It’s not a neatly contained waterfall. Instead, water drips like rain from random places on the ceiling of the tunnel and is only very concentrated as a waterfall at one point. The tunnel is dark and the falling water makes difficult to bring a portable light inside. People can access the tunnel while staying relatively dry by walking along a narrow concrete "catwalk" that hugs one side of the tunnel. Even here, water rains down making progress wet and slippery.</p>
<p>The tunnel is fascinating and loud from the falling and running water. The waterfall itself is nearly impossible to see in the dark. Still, it going inside is a great experience. I wonder what it would be like to go inside during the summer wearing the right gear; a bathing suit and some aqua shoes would do it. I have a thing for flowing water.</p>
<p>Back at the hotel, Monica makes used of the sauna facilities. I sit out on our balcony and enjoy the remainder of the morning. We check out at noon and the shuttle van takes us back to the train station in Huālián (an hour trip for the cost of about $8 per person). We have a simple lunch back in town, purchase some mochi as gifts (mochi is a big deal here) and then return to Taipei.</p>
<p>It rains for much of the trip back to Taipei, but when we arrive it begins to clear. Since the weather is good, we decide to give Taipei 101 another try.</p>
<figure class="tymedia float-right">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/taipei101_night_2.jpg" alt="Photo of Taipei 101 at night" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">Taipei 101 lit up at night.</figcaption>
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<p>At this point in time, Taipei 101 is the world’s tallest building. In the basement of the mall they have an enormous food court and supermarket which specializes in imported foods. It is much like a Whole Foods only more expensive. We stop at the food court for a bite to eat (we try Mediterranean food that is not too bad) and then go up to the entrance for the observation level. We purchase our tickets (about $13 dollars each) and get in line with the Japanese tourists and high school kids to wait for the elevator. Since it is a Thursday night and not a holiday the wait is brief – nothing like trying to go up to the top of the Empire State Building.</p>
<p>After about 5 minutes, we are able to go up. The elevator to the observation level is incredibly fast. A readout on the wall indicates the current elevation, floor, and speed. The trip to the 89th floor takes about 30 ear-popping seconds. There is barely enough time to appreciate the electronic starfield built into the elevator’s ceiling.</p>
<p>The observation level consists of an indoor observation area, a viewing platform where you can see the world’s largest wind damper (the likeness of which was used to create Taipei 101’s iconic “damper baby” character) and a not very well publicized outdoor observation area. Despite the huge, thick security fence in place to discourage suicides or base jumpers, I much preferred the outdoor area. Inside they have built a combination art gallery and store which is too shiny and distracting.</p>
<figure class="tymedia">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/taipei_lights.jpg" alt="Photo of Taipei at night" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">The lights of the city far below the top of Taipei 101.</figcaption>
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<p>The night view from the top of Taipei 101 is very nice but very different from that in New York. Other than 101, there are not really any other tall buildings in the city. As a result, the surrounding city is a bit flat by comparison – just a tablecloth of lights and shadows. In the darkness we can make out the silhouettes of hills and mountains that encroach on the urban areas.</p>
<p>Leaving the observation level was an annoyance. Visitors are forced through a gauntlet of jewelers hawking jade, gold, coral, and other things I avoided looking at. Finding the line for the elevator down seemed to take forever.</p>
<p>We arrive back in the mall just 20 minutes before closing. Quickly, we make go back down to the basement and make a quick visit to the international market. Monica’s parents, having heard so much about the things we cook at home, have asked us to cook something for them before we leave. So, tomorrow for dinner we are going to make pasta and meat sauce. Some of the common ingredients can be difficult to find, but here in the international market we can find organic pasta, parmesan cheese, cans of diced tomato, and pancetta (which I will be using to flavor the sauce; there is no italian sausage here). All together these items come to around 30 dollars.</p>
<p>On the way home, I cannot help but enjoy one more strawberry ice dessert from the Ice Monster.</p>
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<h2>Journal Entries</h2>
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<li><a href="98-03-01.html">98年 3月 1日 – Arrival</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-02.html">98年 3月 2日 – First Outings</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-03.html">98年 3月 3日 – Beef Noodles</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-04.html">98年 3月 4日 – Dànshuǐ</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-05.html">98年 3月 5日 – College</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-06.html">98年 3月 6日 – Yángmíngshān</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-07.html">98年 3月 7日 – Sightseeing</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-08.html">98年 3月 8日 – Běitóu</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-09.html">98年 3月 9日 – Shìlín</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-10.html">98年 3月 10日 – Huālián</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-11.html">98年 3月 11日 – Taroko Gorge</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-12.html">98年 3月 12日 – 101</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-13.html">98年 3月 13日 – A Taste of Home</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-14.html">98年 3月 14日 – Return Trip</a></li>
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<h2>About My Trip</h2>
<p>In 2009, my girlfriend and I visited her home country of Taiwan. During our two week vacation, I wrote daily notes of my experiences and together we took over a thousand photos. Those notes and photos have been compiled into this travel journal.</p>
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<p>© Copyright 2009—2020 by <a href="http://www.aaronpinero.com/">Aaron Pinero</a> except as noted.</p>
<p>Photographs may not be used in any other medium without permission. In most cases, we’d be glad to let you if you ask.</p>
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