-
Notifications
You must be signed in to change notification settings - Fork 0
/
98-03-04.html
117 lines (117 loc) · 15.1 KB
/
98-03-04.html
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
55
56
57
58
59
60
61
62
63
64
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
105
106
107
108
109
110
111
112
113
114
115
116
117
<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
<head>
<!-- include head.html -->
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"/>
<meta name="viewport" content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1">
<link rel="stylesheet" type="text/css" href="resources/trip.css" />
<!-- /include head.html -->
<title>We Ate Taiwan: 98年 3月 4日 – Dànshuǐ</title>
</head>
<body>
<!-- include header.html -->
<a id="top" name="top"> </a>
<div id="pageContainer" class="links-underlined">
<header id="headContainer" class="tymargins-off">
<h1><a href="index.html">We Ate Taiwan</a></h1>
</header>
<div id="columnContainer">
<article id="leftColumn">
<!-- /include header.html -->
<h1 class="tyfont-size-h3">98年 3月 4日 – Dànshuǐ</h1>
<figure class="tymedia">
<img alt="Danshui’s old street" data-lazyimage="resources/photos/danshui_large.jpg" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">Dànshuǐ’s “old street”</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>In a cruel irony, I was required to wake up this morning before I was ready. The jet lag is beginning to pass and all I really wanted was another few hours of sleep. However, we are meeting Monica’s father this morning for breakfast, so I am off to the shower and then out for another gustatory adventure.</p>
<figure class="tymedia float-right zoomable" id="heart">
<img alt="Pork heart and tofu with ginger" data-lazyimage="resources/photos/heart.jpg" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">Pork heart and tofu with ginger. <a href="#heart" class="zoomin tybutton">Zoom In</a> <a href="#_" class="zoomout tybutton">Zoom Out</a></figcaption>
</figure>
<p>On today’s menu: rice noodle soup with organ meat. I intentionally ask Monica not to tell me what I am eating. Overall, the experience is good. I have pork, pork heart, tofu, pork small intestine, and something else I am not sure about (later, I discover that it is lung!). We each are provided a tasty bowl of rice noodles which Monica spikes with garlic soy sauce. Many vampires died on my first exhale.</p>
<p>The noodle stand we patronize is apparently famous; they’ve been on TV, so they had no problem with our request to take a few pictures. Next to the noodle stand is a group of elderly women making 水餃 (shuǐjiǎo, “dumplings”) by hand. The shuǐjiǎo are collected into large plastic bags to be frozen and sold.</p>
<p>After another fine breakfast is finished, we take a tour of the extensive traditional food market of which the noodle stand and the dumpling vendors are a part. One interesting note: it is strawberry season in Taiwan and sweet red specimens are everywhere. Strawberries are my favorite fruit so it brings me a lot of happiness. Monica’s mother wonders why I don’t purchase any, but I haven’t been hungry due to all the food we’ve eaten – besides, it is hard to explain the emotional value of strawberry season. I don’t have to taste them; it’s just nice to know they are there. I’m sure I’ll have a few strawberries before my trip is done.</p>
<figure class="tymedia float-left zoomable" id="market">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/traditionalmarket.jpg" alt="Browsing through the traditional market" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">Browsing through the traditional market. <a href="#market" class="zoomin tybutton">Zoom In</a> <a href="#_" class="zoomout tybutton">Zoom Out</a></figcaption>
</figure>
<p>When browsing the market I have to be cautious. The stalls are set up right on the street. As I am learning, pedestrians don’t necessarily have the right of way. I really have to keep my eyes open for the ubiquitous scooters, bikes and especially cars and vans trying to squeeze their way through the narrow alleys. I am glad to not be driving. The space between vehicles and other objects makes me uncomfortable.</p>
<p>Lunch is in 淡水 (Dànshuǐ), the town where Monica’s maternal grandmother lives. Getting to Dànshuǐ means taking my first trip on the <a href="http://www.trtc.com.tw/e/">MRT</a> (Metropolitan Rapid Transit), <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metro_Taipei">Taipei’s subway system</a>. Like New York’s subway, some of the lines, particularly outside of the downtown area, are not actually subterranean. Unlike the NYC subway, the MRT is new, clean, seemingly cared for and respected by passengers, etc. Riders are not allowed to eat, drink, or smoke on the trains. I am somewhat surprised by the restrictions on smoking throughout Taipei – pleasantly surprised.</p>
<p>Our train ride takes us well away from downtown Taipei. Older buildings, more hills, less density – the terrain reminds me of both southern California and coastal Chile. Socioeconomically, it appears to be an average of the two. Incidentally, this is the first day the sky has cleared. I was able to see the top of Taipei 101 this morning. The sun is shining, the air has warmed considerably (it will top out at 25°C today) and the view from the train is very good. It improves steadily as we approach Dànshuǐ. I divide my attention between the view and my iPhone, where I am using the free <a href="http://www.dianhuadictionary.com/">DianHua</a> dictionary I downloaded from the App Store to look up Chinese characters. Monica helps to give me a brief language lesson.</p>
<p>On arrival at Dànshuǐ, (32NT for the ride, about a dollar) we walk a short distance to a restaurant called 大腳印 (dàjiǎoyìn, “Big Foot Print”). Monica tells me that the restaurant serves a variety of different food styles including Cantonese, Thai, and 客家 (<a href="http://www.omniglot.com/writing/hakka.htm">Kèjiā</a>), an indigenous style.</p>
<figure class="tymedia float-right">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/bigfootprint.jpg" alt="A photo of some dishes from lunch at Big Footprint" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">Our lunch at 大腳印 includes wonderful Thai-style fried chicken, beef with vegetables, and bitter melon with egg.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Monica’s grandmother is waiting for us at the restaurant. She is a tiny, white-haired woman with an expressive face. She looks quite fit for a lady over 80 years old. She is clearly happy to see Monica and the feeling is mutual. We sit at a large round table and are joined by one of Monica’s aunts who teaches at a nearby university. A short time later, Monica translates to me that her grandmother thinks I am lovely – for which I am sure I blush and reply “謝謝”. We then go on to have the best meal I’ve eaten since arriving in Taiwan. Monica’s aunt pre-defined a menu for us, since she is a regular. The waitress populates the lazy susan with spicy Thai-style squid with basil, spicy beef, whole fried fish, lamb stew with ginger and herbs, Thai-style fried chicken with lemon, bitter mellon with very salty egg, greens with garlic, and rice (of course). I eat my first (fried) fish head, and Monica’s mom applauds my effort. My mouth is buzzing from the squid, I feel fat, and all is good right now.</p>
<figure class="tymedia float-right">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/stairs.jpg" alt="Monica going up the stairs in Dànshuǐ" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">Monica going up the stairs in Dànshuǐ.</figcaption>
</figure>
<p>A 15 minute uphill walk, made easy thanks to a pedestrian stairway, takes the edge off the inevitable food coma and brings us to the assisted living center where Monica’s grandmother lives. The view as we go is fantastic. We can see much of Dànshuǐ, the river of the same name that borders the town, and the town of Bālǐ across the water.</p>
<p>The assisted living center resembles a large 4 star hotel, complete with event spaces and cardio-fitness room. Monica’s grandmother has a small apartment a dozen or so floors up with a wonderful view of the river. There are lots of photos around the place, including one of the family patriarch sitting at a table with 鄧小平 (<a href="http://www.cnn.com/SPECIALS/1999/china.50/inside.china/profiles/deng.xiaoping/">Dèng XiǎoPíng</a>, the leader of the Chinese government during the 1980’s). We take some photos of our own.</p>
<p>A shuttle van takes us back to the MRT station, but before heading back to Taipei we visit Dànshuǐ’s “old street” – a sort of large, permanent street fair, outdoor mall and tourist trap all rolled into one. The afternoon has become exceptionally beautiful, so we feel comfortable in some lazy browsing. Though fully stuffed, I try some candied strawberries. The candy shell on the otherwise fresh fruit sticks to my teeth in a disturbingly tenacious way. Monica and I tour a vintage Taiwanese toy shop, handling a variety of bamboo goods and trinkets. We stop at a ceramics store and purchase a small figurine of two dragons (Monica and I were both born in the Dragon year). We take a quick peek inside a Taoist temple. Monica purchases some gifts for her coworkers in an upscale Taiwanese candy shop. We also pass various food stands, tea vendors, rice vendors, and the ever-present coffee shop.</p>
<p>Before heading back to the MRT station, we walk down to the edge of the water. Across the river we can see the buildings of the town of 八里 (Bālǐ). From here, ferries take tourists and travelers across the river. We can also look out to the mouth of the river and the gray haze over the Pacific.</p>
<figure class="tymedia float-right zoomable" id="dinner">
<img data-lazyimage="resources/photos/dinnerathome.jpg" alt="Another incredibly large dinner" src="data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' /%3E">
<figcaption class="tymedia-caption">Another beautiful and incredibly large meal, this one prepared by Monica’s mother. <a href="#dinner" class="zoomin tybutton">Zoom In</a> <a href="#_" class="zoomout tybutton">Zoom Out</a></figcaption>
</figure>
<p>Back home, after resting for a while and another very fancy meal (this time prepared by Monica’s mother – soup, drunken chicken, greens, peppers, fish, some sake) Monica and I walk to the 師大路夜市 (Shīdàlùyèshì, “Shīdà night market”) to do a little shoe shopping and generally take in the sights and smells. On the way we pass the university where Monica took arts classes in preparation for going to Pratt Institute. <a href="http://www.ntnu.edu.tw/ntnu-eng.html">National Taiwan Normal University</a> is surrounded by a number of stores that cater to the arts students. My favorite is a supply and book store for traditional chinese calligraphy. The store has a wide variety of brushes, instructional texts, posters, scrolls, ink, ink stones, etc.</p>
<p>The night market is full of college students. Packed. Food stands are mobbed and stalls are full of patrons. We duck into the occasional stall or store to look at shoes or other goods. In our search for shoes we come up empty but do make a few other small purchases.</p>
<p>On the way to the market, near Monica’s home, we pass a number of boutique shops: a very nice tea shop and a store displaying handmade silver jewelry. Monica’s neighborhood has several streets with some relatively swank stores and cafes. Attractive and inviting places. But in a town like this, the stores hiding the best little secrets aren’t always the prettiest ones.</p>
<p>By the time we return home. I am exhausted and my body is tired of all the walking and standing. Tomorrow we can sleep in.</p>
<!-- include end.html -->
<nav class="paging">
<ul class="tymargins-off">
<li class="prev"><a href="98-03-03.html">Previous Day</a></li>
<li class="next"><a href="98-03-05.html">Next Day</a></li>
</ul>
</nav>
</article>
<aside id="rightColumn">
<h2>Journal Entries</h2>
<ul class="toc tymargins-off">
<li><a href="98-03-01.html">98年 3月 1日 – Arrival</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-02.html">98年 3月 2日 – First Outings</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-03.html">98年 3月 3日 – Beef Noodles</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-04.html">98年 3月 4日 – Dànshuǐ</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-05.html">98年 3月 5日 – College</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-06.html">98年 3月 6日 – Yángmíngshān</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-07.html">98年 3月 7日 – Sightseeing</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-08.html">98年 3月 8日 – Běitóu</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-09.html">98年 3月 9日 – Shìlín</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-10.html">98年 3月 10日 – Huālián</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-11.html">98年 3月 11日 – Taroko Gorge</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-12.html">98年 3月 12日 – 101</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-13.html">98年 3月 13日 – A Taste of Home</a></li>
<li><a href="98-03-14.html">98年 3月 14日 – Return Trip</a></li>
</ul>
<h2>About My Trip</h2>
<p>In 2009, my girlfriend and I visited her home country of Taiwan. During our two week vacation, I wrote daily notes of my experiences and together we took over a thousand photos. Those notes and photos have been compiled into this travel journal.</p>
</aside>
</div>
<div id="footContainer" class="tymargins-off">
<ul class="sitemenu">
<li><a href="#top">Return to the Top</a></li>
<li><a href="index.html">Return to the Main Page</a></li>
<li><a href="slideshow.html">See the Photos</a></li>
</ul>
<p>© Copyright 2009—2020 by <a href="http://www.aaronpinero.com/">Aaron Pinero</a> except as noted.</p>
<p>Photographs may not be used in any other medium without permission. In most cases, we’d be glad to let you if you ask.</p>
</div>
</div>
<script src="resources/js/inview.js"></script>
<script src="resources/js/lazyimage.js"></script>
<script src="resources/js/webfontloader.js"></script>
<script>
WebFont.load({
google: {
families: ['Noto+Sans+TC:400,700','Noto+Sans:400,400i,700,700i']
}
});
</script>
</body>
</html>
<!-- /include end.html -->
</body>
</html>