You don't need the Load Block

[Ergonomicmike]

First, thanks for the video and this github. It gave me the impetus/'courage' to try this conversion for myself on my WEN 56235i.

After doing additional research on the 'net, I found that you do not need the Load Block.

Instead - and arguably better - you can adjust the pressure at the carburetor directly. (Better because the Regulator works exactly as intended, regulating the pressure directly without an indirect middle man Load Block. And better because it saves a lot of time not having to make a Load Block.)

To obtain access to the adjustment, you have to remove a plug from the shaft that is located above the input hole to the regulator. Once the plug is out, you'll see a similar brass screw in the shaft. That is the adjustment for setting the pressure of the regulator. (My plug was very tight. It would not come out, even when using an Impact Wrench. (I don't know if they peen the threads at the factory to prevent the plug from backing out.) I had to drill into it and then use a screw extractor to remove it.)

Here's a video showing the adjustment: youtube.com/watch?v=d8A-k-TUnwg
Jump to the 1 minute mark.

I found that the adjustment at load is very sensitive - less than a half turn making the difference between running smoothly at a load of 1400 Watts vs. hunting and then cutting out due to 'overload.' (I first adjusted the regulator with no load, so that the generator ran smoothly. And then I applied a load and adjust the regulator some more so that the generator ran smoothly again at load.) Screwing the plug "in," CW, is less gas. CCW is more gas. I was a few turns from full in.

And remember that Natural Gas does not have the energy density that gasoline has. So if your generator is rated for, say, 2000 Watts continuous when burning gasoline, don't expect 2000 W when using Natural Gas. (I have seen varying numbers on the 'net. But 80% of rated power seems nominal for NG.)

Next, you might not need the 3d printed adapter. Many ppl on the 'net are simply drilling a hole into their air filter box and pushing the tube (for gas) into the box. Not as elegant and perhaps not as responsive to load changes with all the volume in the air box acting as a buffer. But I mention it for people who don't have a 3d printer and who need to run on NG in an emergency.

As it was, I remixed the 3d print and I made my adapter flange less thick so that the nuts could go on the carburetor studs without having to grind down the OEM nuts. I also used PETG filament to make the part, which I thought was obviously necessary since PLA doesn't handle heat very well.

Last, there are two ports on each of the lower sides of the Regulator. (At 8 and 4 o'clock.) The photo of your Regulator, shown in your pdf, does not show these ports. But I'm thinking that they must be there. (Mine have bosses that protrude a bit past the main shell.) Anyway, one guy in an Amazon Review said that the ports were for pilot light plumbing and that the ports need to be plugged. That is incorrect.

The ports need to remain open, as they let air into the Regulator. Jump to 4:28 in this video: youtube.com/watch?v=CfM6D65MC_w
(You can feel air being sucked into these ports when your generator is running.)

So if your Regulator came with red plastic inserts/keepers in these two holes, remove them to let the Regulator breath.

Hope this helps.